Reasons for a Honeywell Thermostat Connection Failure

Below, I’ve listed 10 of the most common reasons for a connection failure. I’ve also provided solutions and tips to prevent these issues from popping up in the future. 

1. Thermostat Not in Router Range

As I mentioned, the most probable reason why your Honeywell thermostat is suffering from connection failures is that it’s located outside your router's signal range.

So even if it may seem like a simple oversight, many people overlook this detail, especially since you can’t gauge the signal strength of the thermostat using your smartphone without advanced apps.

To determine whether this is an issue, check the distance between the router and the thermostat.

If the thermostat is situated at the edge of your router's signal range, it might be susceptible to connectivity issues due to minor disruptions, such as people passing by or interference from other smart devices and microwaves.

When attempting to connect the thermostat to your smartphone, verify that both the app and your device's software are up to date, and hold the phone closer to the thermostat for optimal connection.

2. Thermostat Can’t Detect Wi-Fi Network

In other cases, the smart thermostat might not be able to detect your Wi-Fi network entirely.

To resolve this, first, ensure that your router is switched on. If you've recently returned from vacation and forgot to plug it back in, this will be a quick fix.

Check for the 2.4GHz Band

Soft-Restart the Thermostat

If these steps don't help, try restarting your thermostat by disconnecting it from the main power or removing one of its batteries.

This action could improve the connection, especially if the network details remain the same.

Check for VPNs

Also, ensure that you disable any VPNs or spoofers, or force close their respective applications, before attempting the connection again.

3. Wi-Fi SSID hidden

Another reason could be that the Wi-Fi name is hidden from the public and other devices. Maybe you’re using additional firewalls or a computer-computer network. Either way, you can break down these digital walls with a simple solution.

All you need to do is change your router’s settings. To do that, access your router’s settings page. You can also do that from your network connection settings if your computer is connected to the Wi-Fi network. 

Another way to deal with this issue is by manually inputting the Wi-Fi name in your thermostat. You should be given an “Other” option when it comes to Wi-Fi names. Input the name of your network manually. Be careful about cases and spellings. 

4. Wi-Fi Disabled On Your Thermostat

Recent models, such as the T10 Pro, have the option to disable Wi-Fi connections. 

To enable it:

5. Wi-Fi Can't Connect to the Internet

If your Wi-Fi router is unable to connect to the internet, there might be a problem with your network or ISP.

To test your connection speed, visit fast.com

Use Mobile Hotspot

If your Wi-Fi network is experiencing difficulties, consider using your phone's mobile hotspot as an alternative to connect your thermostat.

If that works and you can access the internet via your Wi-Fi, the issue might be in your Wi-Fi router. Therefore, it's essential to verify your thermostat's IP address.

Verify the Thermostat’s IP Address

6. Wi-Fi details have changed

Do you remember making any changes to your Wi-Fi network details recently? Perhaps you changed the name or password of the network. In that case, the thermostat will not be able to recognize the new network properties.

To solve this problem, all you have to do is reconnect to the network the same way you did when you connected for the first time. Find the network, input the password, and pair the devices. 

Try Disconnecting and Reconnecting to Your Wi-Fi Network

If you need to disconnect your thermostat from your home Wi-Fi, follow these steps: 

How to Change the Wi-Fi Network on T9 and T10 Models

To change the Wi-Fi network on T10 Pro, T9, and Series 9000 models: 

How to Remove Your Thermostat from the Honeywell Apps

To remove your thermostat from the Honeywell Home app: 

After that, you can follow the app's instructions to reconnect your device.

7. Network Interference

A crowded network is tough on your router, especially when it lacks sufficient bandwidth to handle all of your connected smart devices.

Remember, the majority of these devices rely on the 2.4GHz band, and crowding can bog down the signal.

You must also be cautious about other wireless connectivity sources that might interfere with your Wi-Fi network; this includes Bluetooth devices and even microwave ovens.

To pinpoint the issue, prioritize your network needs by disconnecting or turning off other devices before trying to connect the thermostat again.

A less congested network should enhance the connectivity process for your thermostat.

8. Router needs a Reboot

A less common cause of thermostats disconnecting from the Wi-Fi lies in the router itself. Perhaps your router needs a reboot! Think about it, has there been a power surge in your house recently?

Maybe the router has undergone an automatic update? Could it be that some firmware bug took place? If you can say yes to any of these possibilities, it might be time to reboot your router!

The easiest way to reboot your router is by turning the power off and on again. If it doesn’t work, press and hold the reboot button for a long time to factory reset the router. That will also erase the Wi-Fi name and password that you’ve set up, which might be annoying to change. 

9. Issues with the Thermostat Specifications

First-timers setting up a thermostat connection can be tricky, so ensure you're aware of your network's specifications, such as IP address assignment, wireless security compatibility, and network types.

To find this information, you can check the box or user manual to verify that it matches your network.

10. Issues with Firmware updates

Firmware updates are essential for Honeywell Thermostats to function efficiently and maintain a reliable connection with your Wi-Fi network.

While updates typically occur over Wi-Fi without major problems, there are occasions where issues may arise.

To resolve connection failures, you should first verify if any updates are available within the Honeywell app or consider performing a factory reset on your smart thermostat.

Ensure that your Wi-Fi network operates on the 2.4GHz band, provides a strong signal for your thermostat, and maintains stable internet access throughout the process.

The Verdict

Cited Sources

• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/how-do-i-connect-my-rth8500wf-wifi-series-wifi-touchscreen-programmable-thermostat-to-wifi/
• https://support.resideo.com/s/article/Why-is-my-Honeywell-Home-Wi-Fi-device-not-connecting-to-the-Internet?language=en_US
• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/why-is-my-thermostat-wifi-not-working
• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/when-setting-up-my-t5-or-t5-plus-t6-pro-wifi-cannot-connect-to-my-wi-fi/
• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/wi-fi-7-day-programmable-thermostat-connection-7

The post Solved: Honeywell Smart Thermostat Connection Failure appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

In some cases, the instructions require you to remove the thermostat from its base plate, potentially exposing live wiring. If you come across this requirement, we recommend you isolate the wires beforehand via the circuit breaker box. 

At SmartHomePerfected we always advise readers not to undertake any work they are not competent in performing and if in any doubt, it is best to seek the assistance of a professional.

Honeywell Thermostat Reset: How to Find the Model Number

Before we get into the specifics, the first thing you should do is find the exact model number of your Honeywell thermostat. This can help speed things up since you can breeze through our guide and find the steps to reset your specific model. 

In the guide below, I've included images of Honeywell Thermostats within each range to make it easy to identify the correct one.

Generally speaking, the model name or number of your thermostat is either referenced on the front of the device, is accessible through the digital interface, or printed on a label at the back.

Below are steps to perform, if you need to remove the thermostat from the base plate to access the model number.

Model-Specific Instructions

After you've noted down the model name and number of your Honeywell Thermostat, you can check the sections below for the appropriate reset guide.

Make sure to take note of the various settings on the device before resetting, as you'll likely need to reconfigure them.

T10 Pro and T9 Models

Smart Wi-Fi Thermostats with colored touchscreen

Resetting your Honeywell T9 and T10 models is relatively straightforward. You only need to issue the reset commands via the settings. Here's how:

T5+ / T5 / T6 Pro Smart /T6 Pro Z-Wave Models

Smart Thermostats with Touchscreen

For the rest of the T-series mid-range models such as the T5 and T6 variations, the reset procedures may be slightly different but the main process is outlined below: 

T4 Pro

Programmable Thermostat

The T4 Pro has an entirely different process since you need to head into the advanced setup options menu. 

Here’s how to carry this out:

Lyric Round Smart Thermostat

Smart Thermostat with Circular Interface

Although discontinued, you might still be using a Lyric Round Smart thermostat. Therefore, I’ve decided to include its reset guide also. 

So, here’s how to go through with the reset:

9000 Series

Programmable Thermostat with colored-touchscreen

With a colored touchscreen, the 9000 Wi-Fi models have an entirely different process than the other models. 

8000 Wi-Fi Models (8320 & 8680 VisionPRO)

Programmable thermostats with LCD touchscreen

These thermostat models come with a 10-inch LCD screen and require 4 AA batteries to operate properly. 

Here’s how to reset the 8000 Series of Models:

8321 Wi-Fi Model

Programmable Thermostat with touchscreen

So here’s how to carry out resets for the Honeywell 8321 Models

6000 Series Models (FocusPRO and RTH6500WF)

Programmable Thermostat

Other Models

If your model is not covered by this guide, I've collated a list of user manuals for Honeywell thermostats which you can view here. These manuals contain full reset instructions to get you back up and running, After a reset, you may still need additional tips if your Honeywell thermostat stops working. After a reset, if you notice your Honeywell thermostat flashing cool on, here's what to do next.

References

• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/products/air/thermostats/wifi-thermostats/wifi-9000-color-touchscreen-thermostat-th9320wf5003-u/
• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/how-do-i-reset-my-honeywell-home-device/#T10a
• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/products/air/thermostats/wifi-thermostats/wifi-focuspro-6000-programmable-thermostat-th6320wf1005-u/

The post Honeywell Thermostat Reset: Simple Tricks for Quick Troubleshooting in 2024 appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

What are Error Codes?

Since most thermostats don’t use sophisticated displays, error codes help map out all the different issues that your thermostat can run into.

By understanding the meaning behind these codes displayed on your thermostat, you can address the issue and resolve it.

Are Error Codes Specific to the Model or Manufacturer?

Error codes vary by manufacturer, but for Honeywell thermostats, many codes are consistent across multiple models.

Combined List of Honeywell Thermostat Error Codes 

Error codes can help diagnose most issues with your Honeywell Smart thermostat. So, here's a breakdown of all the most common Honeywell thermostat error codes.

Model-Specific Error Codes

While the previous list covers all common Honeywell thermostat error codes, certain codes may be exclusive to specific models.

If your model is listed below, you can check the unique model-specific error codes right below. However, if you can’t find a specific model, you can refer to this article which contains an index of all Honeywell Thermostat manuals.

T10 Pro and T9

Honeywell has gotten rid of the error codes with the more recent models. Instead of error codes, the smart thermostat now pushes alerts with detailed error messages.

For these models, the red dot above the Menu icon will usually indicate any active alert or notification. Unlike the numbered error codes, these alerts will include detailed messages and provide you with instructions on how to resolve them.

To Access Alerts and Notifications: 

1. Touch the Menu icon.
2. Go to “Notifications” 
3. A list of recent notifications will pop up.
4. Touch any of these alert messages/notifications to get more details.

Error Messages Common to T9 and T10 Models

Here are the most common error messages and solutions to fix them.

Below are some more unusual error messages you may encounter with these models.

T6 Pro Smart

For the T6 Pro Smart and similar models, the touchscreen will show up a “general warning” sign to indicate any errors or alerts.

To access these alerts or messages:

1. Touch on the “Menu”
2. Use the “+” or “-” buttons until you get to the “ALERTS” sub-menu.
3. From there, touch on “Select” to open the alerts screen
4. The 3-digit error code will show up along with a description when you scroll down
5. You can use the left or right arrows or + and – buttons to scroll between multiple alerts and dismiss the unimportant ones.

Unique Error Codes for the T6 Pro Smart

400: Indicates a loss of Wi-Fi Signal. Give it some time to reconnect or choose another network.

508: Notifies that the Wi-Fi is not yet configured. Make sure to download the Honeywell Home app and follow the provided instructions to link your thermostat.

T6 Pro Z-Wave

For the Z-Wave model, a couple of extra unique error codes can pop up. These are: 

54: Indicates that the humidity sensor on your thermostat has malfunctioned and needs to be replaced.

252: Alerts you whenever the thermostat switches to power-save mode (LSS) or when AC power is restored. This notifies you to re-establish the mains power as soon as possible so you can prevent unnecessary battery drainage because of the Z-Wave network.

Conclusion

Sources

• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/
• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/why-is-my-th1100dh-th1110dh-th1210dh-showing-an-error-message-e1/
• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/why-is-my-th1100dv-th1110dv-th1210dv-showing-an-error-message-e2/

The post Honeywell Thermostat Error Code Troubleshooting appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

What is Honeywell Thermostat EM Heat?

Emergency heat (often referred to as “EM heat” or “auxiliary heat”) is a backup heating option available in HVAC systems that typically rely on a heat pump as a primary heating source.

How to Switch Between Emergency Heat Mode and Other Modes

Depending on the model, the option to toggle the emergency heat may vary. So to address this, I’ve created a model-specific guide below. 

You can check these guides or head over to our collated list of Honeywell thermostat user manuals to browse the guide for your specific model.  

Honeywell Home App

Here's how to switch to emergency heat mode using the Honeywell Home App.

T10 Pro and T9 Models

Smart thermostat with a color touchscreen

For the recent T9 and T10 Pro models:

However, please note that certain models or HVAC systems won’t always offer the emergency heat setting.

T4, T5 and T6 Models

Smart thermostat with touchscreen

For this set of models, the thermostat home screen displays the current system mode at the left of the indoor temperature. Therefore, you can switch between available modes by pressing on the “Mode” button 

9000 and VisioPRO 8000 Series

Programmable thermostat with touchscreen

To set your Honeywell thermostat's system mode for 9000 and 8000 models, follow these steps: 

Keep in mind that the Automatic and Emergency Heat settings might not be displayed, depending on your thermostat's installation.

5000 and 6000 Series

Programmable thermostats

For these programmable models, simply press the “SYSTEM” button to cycle through the available options.

4000 to 1000 Series

Programmable and Non-programmable thermostats

For these older models, you can toggle the available options using the physical switch located on the panel. In most models, this switch is at the bottom but can also be found on the side of the panel.

Similar Questions

When Should I Switch to EM Heat?

Setting the EM Heat on your Honeywell thermostat correctly can significantly improve your home's heating efficiency during cold snaps. Switch to EM Heat when your primary heat pump fails or cannot provide enough warmth. This usually happens during extremely cold weather (less than 30 degrees fahrenheit) or due to a damaged heat pump.

As such, it’s best reserved for true emergencies such as when the heat pump is damaged or nonresponsive.

In certain models, the thermostat will automatically make the switch. 

What Do I Need to Enable the EM Heat Function?

To enable the EM Heat function, your thermostat must be configured for a heat pump with backup heat. 

An installer will usually know how to make this configuration but you can also do this yourself in certain models with the help of the installation manual.

Also, the auxiliary heat pump's signal wire must be connected to the thermostat's wiring.

Doesn't Auto Mode Switch Over to EM Heat When Necessary?

Some thermostat models with the Auto Changeover feature can automatically switch to EM Heat when necessary. 

However, you still need to have the auxiliary heat sources (such as a gas furnace or heat strip) set up and wired correctly.

Is The Emergency Heat Setting More Expensive to Run?

Yes, emergency heat can be considerably more expensive than using the primary heat pump.

The cost difference depends on the heat source (such as gas furnaces or electric heat strips) and the duration of use.

Since it's pricier, I recommend you use the emergency heat setting sparingly and reach out to a professional technician to restore the regular heat pump functions as soon as possible.

Conclusion

Sources

• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/prestige-hd-7-day-programmable-thermostat-4/
• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/what-is-auto-changeover/
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdTf58IbYZE&ab_channel=KillobyteDIY

The post Ultimate Guide to Honeywell Thermostat EM Heat Settings: 2023 Edition appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

Normally these messages only flash for five minutes and then turn solid to indicate the system has started. However, if it keeps flashing, it could be due to a communication issue with the AC system. Air conditioning plays a crucial role in maintaining a comfortable indoor environment. Make sure to follow my troubleshooting steps below to get to the root of the problem.

What Does the “Cool On” or “Heat On” Indicator Mean?

During normal operation, the “Cool On” or “Heat On” message stays lit depending on the temperature mode. So if the air conditioner is working to cool down the house, the thermostat will say “Cool On.” It is important to set the thermostat to ‘cool mode' to ensure proper cooling. Meanwhile, if the heat pump is working to heat up, the thermostat will instead display “Heat On.”

“Cool On” indicator on a Honeywell T6 display

Compressor Protection Feature

However, if either of these messages are flashing it can imply that the thermostat is running the compressor protection feature, known as the delay mode. The delay mode helps protect the compressor by preventing wear and potential damage.

In some models, this message is displayed as “Waiting for equipment”. The thermostat activates a startup delay to protect the compressor from voltage fluctuations after a power loss, allowing the AC system to reset and readjust to normal operating conditions.

As the name suggests, it’s an intentional safety feature to prevent any harm to your compressor, especially in the event of a power outage.

By taking about 5 minutes to cycle, the thermostat ensures that everything runs smoothly and avoids the damage caused by intermittent power cuts or surges.

So after you’ve just recovered from a power cut, the “Cool On” or “Heat On” message would stay flashing for five minutes. After which, it will remain solid and the HVAC system will kick in.

10 Steps to Troubleshoot a Honeywell Thermostat Flashing Cool On or Heat On Indicator

When the “Cool On” or “Heat On” indicator continues to flash for more than five minutes without hot/cold air coming in, it can indicate a malfunctioning thermostat. If the issue persists, it is important to consult an HVAC professional to diagnose and resolve the problem.

If so, I recommend following the troubleshooting steps laid out below.

1. Wait 5-10 minutes

Your thermostat could be facing a slight delay in restarting and activating its compressor protection feature, which is often indicated on the thermostat display.

Make sure to wait at least 5 minutes before further troubleshooting. I recommend waiting for a solid 10 minutes so you can confidently rule out the compressor protection feature.

2. Set the Thermostat to its Lowest Temperature Setting

You can verify the thermostat’s ability to manage the cooling system by adjusting its settings.

• First, set the thermostat to the lowest possible temperature.
• Ensure that the mode is set to “Cool” and that the fan setting is on “Auto.”
• After making these adjustments, give it some time.
• Check if the AC comes to life or if you experience any change in the room’s temperature, specifically if cool air is being emitted from the vents.

This will help determine if the thermostat is effectively controlling the temperature function.

3: Check if the Thermostat is in Setup Mode or if the Clock is Set

In certain models, when the thermostat is recovering from a power outage, it may revert to setup mode, causing the “Honeywell thermostat cool on” lights to blink.

To resolve this, check your thermostat’s settings and make any necessary adjustments.

Also, verify that the time displayed on your thermostat is accurate. An incorrect time setting can interfere with the schedule settings and glitch out the thermostat.

4: Check the Thermostat Batteries/Power Connection

Weak batteries can prevent your thermostat from initiating the cooling process.

To fix this, replace the thermostat batteries by removing the thermostat from the wall mount and replacing the batteries on the back of the panel.

If your thermostat uses a 24 VAC power source instead of batteries, inspect the wiring.

To do so:

• First, turn off the power to your HVAC system.
• Next, remove the thermostat, ensuring you unscrew it first if necessary.
• Then, examine the C-wire to confirm its proper connection.
• Make sure there is no dust, dirt, or debris, and clean the contacts.
• You can also try reconnecting the terminals, making sure they are secure.
• Additionally, check the circuit breaker to ensure it hasn't tripped, as this can affect the power supply to your thermostat.

Check out our guide on how to change Honeywell thermostat batteries

5. Check the Voltage at the Thermostat Contacts

If you know how to troubleshoot electrical components and you already have a multimeter, you can check the voltage in the thermostat wires. 

Make sure that the R and C contacts have a voltage between 24-30V; lower values might indicate insufficient power.

6. Check the Power in Each Component of the Cooling System

If the previous steps haven’t resolved the issue, you’ll need to diagnose the rest of the HVAC system.

• First, inspect the power supply of your air handler, fans, furnace, AC unit, and outdoor unit.
• Watch out for unusual humming or clicking noises coming from your equipment, as these might indicate a problem.
• Also, examine the power supply for each device.
• Make sure that connectors and sockets are appropriately plugged in, and switches are turned on.
• While examining your equipment, check if the doors or panels are properly closed. Loose or detached parts and any obstructions may cause the safety switches to disconnect, especially the furnace door.
• If possible, check the fuses or switches visually or by using the continuity setting on a multimeter
• Then, inspect your circuit breakers for any irregularities.
• Try turning your equipment on and off, as well as resetting the breaker corresponding to these devices.

7. Check the Indoor AC Air Filters

It’s essential to regularly inspect your indoor AC air filter to make sure it doesn’t need replacing. Replacing air filters every three months is crucial for maintaining optimal performance.

A clogged or dirty filter hinders proper airflow and can lead to decreased cooling efficiency and poor air quality inside your house.

It can also put extra strain on your thermostat and other equipment, ultimately leading to higher energy bills.

So I recommend making it a habit to change your AC filter every three months or as recommended by the manufacturer.

8. Check AC Coils and See if they are Dirty

The external AC coils can also become dirty or blocked over time.

• As the coil accumulates dirt, it hampers proper airflow and reduces its ability to absorb heat and adequately cool the air.
• Inspect your AC unit's coils to see if there is buildup on the fins, indicating the need for a thorough cleaning.
• However, always make sure the unit is turned off before attempting any cleaning or maintenance.
• To reduce the chances of clogging and improve efficiency, keep the area around the AC clean and provide ample space for airflow by removing any nearby plants or debris.

9. Reset your Thermostat

In some cases, resetting your thermostat to factory defaults might be necessary.

Keep in mind that this process will erase your settings and programmed schedule, so it's a good idea to take note of any configurations you don't want to forget.To reset a Honeywell thermostat, check out my detailed reset guide which covers all Honeywell thermostat models.

10. Bypass the Thermostat

If you’re somewhat more skilled at DIY, especially when it comes to dealing with electrical components, you can try to bypass the thermostat. 

However, make sure you have a multimeter and a proper tool to create a jumper wire.

• First, turn off the power switch on the furnace or air handler, and also disconnect the thermostat from the breaker.
• Then, take out the thermostat from the wall mount.
• After that, run one end of a jumper to R (Power) and the other end to Y (Cooling) or W (Heating) on the thermostat contacts.
• With this setup in place, turn the power back on and check if the AC or furnace/air handler turns on. 
• If these components turn on without any issue, the thermostat is indeed defective.

Final Step: Call in the Professionals!

When you’ve exhausted all possible solutions and your thermostat is still flashing “Cool On,” it’s time to get the help of an HVAC technician.

• A trained technician can likely pinpoint the problem and fix it with ease.
• Some common issues that may require professional intervention include damaged wiring, a malfunctioning capacitor, an obstructed sensor, or a blown fuse.
• In addition, components like the compressor, condenser, or fan motor may need further inspection.
• For a recently installed thermostat, an expert can verify proper wire connections and ensure the device is set up correctly for your specific HVAC system.

Conclusion

If the Cool On or Heat On message is flashing for more than five minutes, it will require you to troubleshoot the entire HVAC and air conditioning system.

The troubleshooting guide above will help you do just that so if you follow those steps, you’ll be able to get to the root cause in no time.

However, if you aren’t able to check the circuit breakers or the rest of your HVAC system, always get a professional to help you.

Sources

• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/my-thermostat-display-shows-wait-or-waiting-for-equipment-or-has-a-flashing-cool-on-in-display/
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Y_R9unnadI&ab_channel=WordofAdviceTV

The post 10 Steps to Fix When Honeywell Thermostat Flashing Cool On or Heat On appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

Troubleshooting Procedure

I’ve broken this guide into two sections for easier explanation:

• Scenario 1: If your thermostat has a blank display and is not responding to any button presses, then continue reading.

• Scenario 2: If your thermostat has an active display that responds to touch, but, the heating or AC unit is not turning on or reaching the set temperature then jump to Scenario 2. In this case, the thermostat may possibly flash an error code or message like “cool on”, “heat on”, “wait”, “waiting for equipment”, or specific thermostat error codes. This could indicate an issue with the cooling system, requiring you to check the thermostat settings, wiring, power source, and overall equipment functionality. Additionally, performing a thermostat reset might be a necessary step in the troubleshooting process.

Scenario 1: Troubleshooting a Blank Screen on the Thermostat

If the thermostat display is not waking up to button presses or touch gestures for smart thermostats, it may be a malfunction, an electrical problem, a blank screen, or the device may be out of power.

Besides that, it can also indicate an issue within the internals of the thermostat. A malfunctioning furnace door switch can prevent the thermostat from working properly.

So let’s walk through the troubleshooting steps in a blank display, step by step.

So let’s walk through troubleshooting a blank display, step by step.

Step 1. Check if the Thermostat Panel is Pressed In

First, you want to check if the thermostat panel is firmly pressed in.

If it’s not, make sure to take it out, unscrew any fasteners, and re-install the panel. The new thermostat panel should stay flush with the wall plate.

Even if the panel isn’t loose, I highly recommend to gently pull the thermostat panel and reinstall it for good measure. While you’re doing so, make sure to follow the second step.

Step 2. Check the Thermostat Wiring

So while you’re unplugging the thermostat panel, it’s a good idea to check the thermostat wiring for loose connections or damage and verify the thermostat settings are correct.

The wiring configuration may vary based on your system setup, but always check for the red-colored R-wire and make sure it’s connected securely to the appropriate terminal.

Beyond that, you can check for the black-colored C wire, if your thermostat doesn’t run on batteries. Additionally, ensure the G terminal is properly connected, as it activates the fan to circulate cooler air in your home.To learn more about thermostat wiring, you can check out this guide.

Step 3. Check the Batteries

After checking the wiring, it’s also a good idea to check the thermostat batteries, and possibly replace them if you haven’t done so in a while.

Even in cases of screen flickering, fading, or completely turning off, replacing the batteries might quickly solve your issue.

Most thermostats have batteries and still take power from the HVAC system, but some models work only on batteries. Nevertheless, replacing the batteries is always a good idea.

Also, don’t forget to check out my extensive guide on how to replace batteries for all Honeywell thermostat models.

Now, reinstall everything and see if the thermostat lights up.

Step 4. Check the Power

If the panel doesn’t power on, even after following through with the steps above, it could be due to an electrical problem. Check the circuit breaker and the lights on your HVAC system, and ensure the thermostat power source is functioning correctly.

Also, look for any safety switches near the unit. If your thermostat has one, make sure it’s flipped to the “on” position.

Step 5. Check Furnace Doors

If your thermostat is connected to a furnace, it is possible that the furnace door is not shut properly. Furnaces usually have a door switch, and some thermostats are extremely sensitive to the furnace door switch as it’s a safety concern. A malfunctioning furnace door switch can prevent the thermostat from working properly.

Check if doors are closed and sensors and indicators are working. If the door switch is broken or seems to have damaged wires, you might need to get it replaced with the help of a technician.

Step 6. Check the Voltage in the Thermostat Wires

If you’re comfortable tackling electrical components yourself, and you already have a multimeter on hand, you can check the thermostat voltage by measuring the DC voltage coming in from the HVAC system and connecting to the thermostat.

Remove the thermostat panel from the mounting plate and check the DC voltage between the R and C contacts. For most systems, they need to be around 24-30V.

If you find a lower voltage, it might mean a wiring error or fault within the HVAC system, or an electrical problem.

Optional Step: Try Bypassing the Thermostat

If you have access to a tool or a contraption to create a jumper wire, you can try a thermostat bypass.

This isn’t a proper solution per se, but with this method, you can confirm if the issue lies within the thermostat and not the HVAC.

To bypass the thermostat:

• Turn off the breakers for the thermostat and the rest of the HVAC (furnaces, heat pumps, etc.)
• After that, remove the thermostat panel from its wall mount
• Fix one end of the jumper to the R contact and the other end to the AC or furnace contacts. Usually, it’s Y for cooling and W for heating.
• After the jumpers are installed, switch the power back on and see if the HVAC kicks in.

If the furnace or AC unit powers on without any issues, you can safely rule out the HVAC system. Then, the issue is definitely within the thermostat itself.

Conversely, if the HVAC doesn’t work, you might have to troubleshoot it further.

Scenario 2: Troubleshooting the HVAC not reaching the set temperature

In this scenario, your thermostat has an active display that responds to touch, however, the heating or air conditioning system is not reaching its set temperature. In this case, the thermostat may possibly flash an error code or message like “cool on”, “heat on”, “wait”, “waiting for equipment”, or specific thermostat error codes. To troubleshoot, check the thermostat settings and ensure the power source is functioning correctly.

If a specific error code is showing, I recommend checking out this error code guide here.

Step 1. Change the Temperature

The first thing you can do if your thermostat display is on, but doesn’t power on the HVAC, is to adjust the thermostat temperature settings.

So, first, try changing the temperature on your Honeywell thermostat.

Also, make sure the desired temperature falls within the acceptable ranges.

Specifically, set the heating between 40 °F to 90 °F (4.5 °C to 32.0 °C) and the cooling between 50 °F to 99 °F (10.0 °C to 37.0 °C). If you go beyond these ranges, the HVAC won’t kick in.

Step 2. Wait 5-10 Minutes

If your display shows a “wait” message, or flashes “cool on” or “heat on,” you can simply wait it out for five minutes or so, which is known as the thermostat wait time.

This step helps you safely rule out the compressor protection feature.

Step 3. Change the Temperature Mode

However, if the HVAC doesn’t power on after that, try resetting or changing the thermostat mode first. This can help the thermostat reconfigure itself.

Also, if you find that the heating unit works while the cooling does not (or vice-versa) you can easily tell that the issue lies within the component that doesn’t power on.

Step 4. Verify the Temperature Sensor is Working Correctly

In certain situations, although rare, the thermostat sensor inside the thermostat, or the one connected to it, might be malfunctioning. In this case, it’s a good idea to verify the temperature readings using an external temperature gauge to ensure accurate temperature readings.

If the room temperature displayed on your thermostat or smart sensor isn’t consistent with the reading on a thermometer, it might imply the sensor is faulty.

Faulty Smart Sensor

In the case of faulty smart sensors (like the T9 smart room sensor), you can unlink the smart thermostat sensor from the app and replace it with a new one later (or replace the battery in the sensor).

Fault in the Embedded Temperature Sensor in the Thermostat

If it’s the temp sensor in your thermostat that’s incorrect, you might have to get the embedded thermostat sensor looked at by a technician or replace it entirely.

Step 5. Check the Wiring

Weak splices, wrong or loose connections, exposed wiring, or a faulty thermostat may cause issues and prevent your thermostat from working properly.

In this case, isolate the circuit, unscrew the thermostat, and check if the wires are connected correctly to address any thermostat wiring issues, and verify the thermostat settings are accurate.

Check if Y and Y2 are attached to the correct color wire for cooling. For heating, check if W and W2 are attached to the correct color wire.

Also, you may want to verify if there are Rh and Rc wires in your system and whether they are attached to the proper terminals identified by the correct color.

Step 6. Check Individual Components

If possible, you can check all the individual thermostat components of your HVAC, including the air conditioner, air filters.

This might include checking the switches, indicators, fuses, and wiring for your furnace, heat pump, and AC unit, and ensure the power source is functioning correctly, and verify the thermostat settings are accurate.

Final Step: Call in the Experts

When all else fails and your Honeywell thermostat remains unresponsive, consider seeking professional help from a thermostat technician.

A technician can quickly identify and fix common issues, such as damaged wiring, malfunctioning capacitors, obstructed sensors, or blown fuses, while also inspecting components like the compressor, condenser, or fan motor.

Conclusion

A Honeywell programmable thermostat will stop working either because the display is off or the HVAC is not responding.

By following the steps outlined for each situation, including checking the thermostat settings and power source, you can get to the root of the problem and ensure it won’t happen again.

However, make sure to call in a professional support if you’re not comfortable diagnosing electrical components and always follow the proper safety precautions.

This article serves as a thermostat troubleshooting guide to help you address common issues with your Honeywell programmable thermostat.

Sources

• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/air/thermostats/product-selector/device-not-working/
• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/lyric-thermostat-troubleshooting-7/
• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/why-is-my-thermostat-wifi-not-working
• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/when-setting-up-my-t5-or-t5-plus-t6-pro-wifi-cannot-connect-to-my-wi-fi/

The post Honeywell Thermostat Not Working: Troubleshoot Guide appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

Amazon Echo Alexa device might not be responding due to connectivity issues or microphone settings. Ensure your device is connected to the internet by checking your Wi-Fi. Restart your Alexa and your router. If the issue persists, open the Alexa app, navigate to Devices > Echo & Alexa > [Your Device], and ensure it has the latest firmware updates. Also, verify that the microphone is not muted and test the device with another voice command. For more detailed troubleshooting, refer to the Alexa Help & Customer Support.

Now, let's get into more detail about common Alexa echo problems:

How to fix Alexa not responding to voice commands issue?

Method 1: Ask Alexa Echo your question again and this time speak louder! 

While it sounds ridiculous, voice recognition issues could be because the Amazon Echo Alexa device simply didn’t catch your question!

Echo devices have integrated omnidirectional microphones so in theory they can catch voice commands from 360 degrees and a decent distance. 

My experience is somewhat different! I have an Amazon Echo speaker installed above a kitchen wall cabinet which regularly misses questions I ask and I typically need to shout the question at her!

I really should just move the device, so it’s in a more direct “earshot!”

If you have a Smart TV or Firestick, you may need to press the microphone button on your remote for Alexa to hear your command.

If you are using Alexa on your phone, you may need to be in the Alexa App for the voice command to register.

Method 2: Test the microphone button by saying “Alexa, can you hear me?”

Alexa activates when she hears her “wake word” which is typically “Alexa”, “Echo” or “Computer”. However, there are plenty of times when she thinks she hears her wake word and listens in. After analyzing the audio signal, if she determines that there isn’t actually a question for her, she simply ignores it.

If you ask Alexa a very long-winded question, she can sometimes think the audio isn’t relevant to her and ignore it. 

So instead when testing, I recommend simply asking “Alexa, can you hear me?”

Method 4: Rephrase the Question to see if Alexa responding

If the Amazon Alexa device responds to “Can you hear me” but not your original question, then it's worth rephrasing the question to something she will respond to.

Method 5: Leave a slight gap between saying “Alexa” and your voice command

I have a tendency to speak quite fast, which can result in Alexa missing the question.

To ensure your voice commands are properly relayed, leave a slight gap when you say the word “Alexa” followed by your question.

As you relay the commands, make sure you speak naturally and clearly. To get a better understanding of how Alexa picks up your commands, you may access the Alexa history and see what the device interprets during your voice commands.

(Alexa App > More > Settings > Alexa Privacy > Voice History).

When I did this I was surprised how many times Alexa recorded audio which was then classified as “Audio was not intended for this device”.

Method 6: Check if your Amazon Alexa Echo device is powered on and responsive

If Amazon Alexa responding to you with the silent treatment, then it’s time to check if she’s actually plugged in!

Echo devices need a constant reliable power supply and I recommend using the power adapter that came with the device when you purchased it.

If the Amazon's Alexa device is securely plugged into a wall outlet, then press a button on the device. There should be some feedback to your button press, such as the light ring illuminating or some message on the screen.

Method 7: Check Alexa if muted

If your device has power then to check whether or not your device is muted, look at its light indicator. If the light indicator is red, your device is muted.

The mute feature prevents the device from picking up your commands and responding to them. To unmute the device, press the microphone button for at least two seconds and the device will send an indication that it has been unmuted. 

Method 7: Check the selected “Wake Word” in the Alexa App

As mentioned earlier, Alexa can be configured to respond to other “wake words” such as Amazon, Echo or Computer . There are also optional “celebrity wake words” such as Samuel L Jackson, Melissa McCarty, Shaquille O’Neill or even Santa Claus!

If the Echo device is configured to respond to one of those other words, then it won’t respond to the “Alexa” prompt.

To double check which is set …

1. Go to your Alexa App > More > Settings > Device Settings
2. Select the device you are trying to communicate with
3. Hit the cog at the top right of the screen
4. Hit “Wake Word” under General
5. This loads the various wake words and “Alexa” should have a blue tick beside it. If it doesn’t either select it, or instead just use the other wake word configured.

Method 7: Reduce background noise or move the Alexa device

I’ve found the Echo microphones to be quite good at picking up questions, even when the Echo speaker is blaring out music.

However, if another device is playing music, or there’s simply a lot of active noise in the room, voice recognition issue can occur. Also, Amazon recommends moving your device away from walls!

So, to ensure Alexa clearly hears your commands and is able to respond, you’ll want to reduce or eliminate the background noise. These include anything from TV or music speakers, to sounds from kitchen appliances, or conversations.

Method 8: Check if “Brief Mode” is enabled

If “Brief Mode” is set, it can reduce the duration of Alexa’s responses. It can also replace responses with a short beep instead of answering.

If you think this might be the problem, you can check it in the Alexa App under More > Settings > Voice Responses under Alexa Preferences. 

Method 9: Check if Alexa has an active internet connection

Sometimes you may experience issues with Echo Speaker or Display not responding to voice commands due to poor internet or no internet connection at all. 

While generally she’ll inform you if she’s having trouble connecting to the internet, on occasion she might not.

Method 10: Test Wi-Fi on your phone while standing beside your router

To check if your Wi-Fi network has internet, I typically connect my phone to the network and disable mobile data. From there I try to access the internet through Google Chrome or another web browser. As web browsers can serve cached content, I usually try to run a speed test to ensure there is data flowing back and forth (Simply Google the words “speed test” to find the resource).

Method 11: Test Wi-Fi on your phone while standing beside your Echo device

While you may have a decent internet connection while standing beside your router, that signal might not be as powerful where your Echo device is located.

So carry out the test again, but this time go to the location of the smart speaker.

If you suspect your Wi-Fi signal is the issue, it might be worth investing in a Wi-Fi repeater/extender or upgrading to mesh Wi-Fi. Alternatively, you could move the Echo device closer to the Wi-Fi router.

Method 12: Double Check Wi-Fi settings for the device in the Alexa App

If your Wi-Fi network is operating normally, then I recommend checking to make sure the Echo device is configured to work with that Wi-Fi network.

For this go the Alexa App > More > Settings > Device Settings > Choose the Echo device. Press the cog at the top of the screen and under Wireless, you should see the name of the Wi-Fi network. This should be the same as the one you just tested with.

Method 13: Out-of-Date Firmware (Alexa software versions)

If you’ve plugged in your device for the first time in a while, it’s possible the device's firmware is out of date.

Typically, Echo devices download firmware automatically when connected to the internet.

You can usually ask “Alexa, check for a software update” However that’s clearly no help if she’s not answering you!

Instead, restarting the device as discussed next may help force a software update.

Note: You can also see the current Device Software Version under the About section of the device in the app. While this doesn’t tell you if this is the latest version, it may be useful if you end up speaking to someone in Amazon support.

Method 14. Restart your Alexa device

If making changes to the device settings doesn’t work or the device is unresponsive to button presses, you may have to simply restart your Alexa device. 

This is how you restart Alexa: Unplug it from the outlet, wait a minute and then plug it back in. (This is called “power cycling”)

Once it reconnects to the network, try the voice command again to see if it works.

Method 15: Reset your Alexa device

If the above methods don’t work, then you may have to resort to the last option – reset your Alexa device. 

To reset unresponsive Alexa, press the action button (The solid circle) on the device for 20 seconds. Once the light ring comes back on, you’re back in setup mode.

From here go to the device in the Alexa App and follow the setup instructions.

Final Words

If none of the above work to fix voice-recognition glitches, it’s possible that you either have received a faulty device or damage has occurred to the device over time.

This happened to me when I had an Echo Dot on my kitchen window and eventually, water splashed on it from the sink. It never really recovered from the water damage.

If you think those common Alexa voice recognition glitches are caused by the faulty device, then it’s definitely worth seeing if it's still under warranty and contacting the retailer or Amazon themselves.

So there you have it! 11 tips and tricks to fix the issue of Alexa Echo Dot not responding to your voice commands. 

Let us know in the comments below if any of these worked to fix your Echo problems or if you have any other tips or tricks I should include!

The post Why is my Alexa not responding to voice commands? appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

The continuous appearance of these warnings can hint at hardware problems, such as a power shortage with the thermostat's power supply in your smart devices, indicating potential hardware issues.

There are two ways that Nest Thermostats receive power:

1. The HVAC equipment (such as the furnace) powers and recharges the internal battery when it is turned on.
2. Additional charging occurs through the common wire or C-Wire.

In certain scenarios, your thermostat simply does not get enough power from your HVAC equipment when it is turned on, resulting in a low-power state, indicating potential hardware problems and a power shortage.

This low-power state is the cause of the delayed message you receive along with a number of other problems and malfunctions that can occur within your HVAC controls, often due to insufficient battery power.

Read on to find out how to temporarily fix this problem, along with 5 ways to supply your thermostat with a C-Wire.

TLDR – Links to Devices to supply power

1. Nest Power Connector

A C-Wire alternative designed for Nest Thermostat

View Price

2. Fast-STAT

A generic C-Wire alternative

View Price

3. C-Wire Adapter

24 volt transformer for a nearby power outlet

View Price

Differences in battery types based on the Nest Thermostat model

Newer models, such as the Nest Thermostat E and Nest Learning Thermostat later generations feature an internal rechargeable battery that users cannot replace independently.

The furnace powers and recharges the internal battery when turned on, while further charging occurs through a common wire.

Whereas the older Nest Thermostat operates on two 1.5V AAA alkaline batteries, which require replacement as they deplete, indicating hardware problems and potential hardware failure due to power shortages.

Troubleshooting Hardware Problems

Nest Thermostat Delayed: Low power going to your thermostat.

Low power going to your thermostat can cause various issues, including delays in your Nest thermostat's operation. Unlike traditional thermostats, Nest devices require more power to support their advanced functions, such as Wi-Fi connectivity, motion sensors, and other smart features.

When the integrated rechargeable battery drains too quickly, the thermostat may struggle to regulate heating, cooling, and fan operation consistently.

Can function without a C-wire

Although Nest thermostats can technically function without a C-wire, sometimes they cannot draw enough power from the heating or cooling system alone.

This lack of power may cause problems, such as the “Nest Thermostat Delayed” message.

To resolve this issue and restore proper functioning, you'll need to inspect the C-wire connection on your Nest thermostat.

Simply detach the display and examine the panel labeled ‘C', where a blue wire should be present if you're experiencing low power issues.

If you don’t see one, installing a C-wire provides a consistent power supply, helping to prevent future delays and malfunctions in your smart thermostat system.

Purpose of the C-Wire and the internal battery

The C-wire, also known as the “common” wire, is crucial for providing a continuous power supply to your Nest thermostat.

Unlike the Rh and Rc wires, which only provide power when switched on, the C-wire allows for a steady flow of electricity to the thermostat at all times.

This constant power supply helps in maintaining the thermostat's internal battery.

A healthy battery ensures that all smart features of your Nest thermostat operate smoothly, such as Wi-Fi connectivity, software updates, and motion sensing.

Impact of Continuous Power 

Having a continuous power supply through the C-wire prevents your Nest thermostat from experiencing low voltage issues.

As mentioned, certain actions and features require a specific voltage, and when the battery voltage drops, these features may not function properly or at all.

In extremely low voltage cases, the Nest thermostat may even disable its screen to preserve the remaining battery life.

By connecting the C-wire to your thermostat, you can maintain a consistent power supply, ensuring all of the smart functions and features work efficiently, and avoiding any potential delays or malfunctions.

Temporary Solution: Charge the Thermostat

A temporary solution to the “Delayed” error message on your Nest Thermostat is charging the device.

While this charging method can resolve the “Delayed” error temporarily, it is not a long-term solution.

Check out the below solutions to permanently fix this issue.

Permanent Solution: Provide a C-Wire to your Nest Thermostat

To permanently resolve Nest thermostat delays, consider adding a C-Wire to your system. Firstly check if one is installed, by going to “Settings” and “Equipment” on the thermostat.

If one isn’t installed then check out the options below. If there is one installed, check out our other solutions section below.

Option 1: Hardwire a C-Wire

To hardwire a C-wire, you'll need to connect it to both your HVAC system and your Nest thermostat.

Make sure you turn off the power to your equipment before installation to ensure safety.

Keep in mind that this process can be a significant task if there is no spare wire available, as the wiring between your furnace and thermostat likely runs behind walls or in hard-to-reach locations.

Below are the steps involved for scenarios where there is an unused wire not connected to either the thermostat or the HVAC system.

Option 2: Use the Nest Power Connector

Nest Power Connector

A C-Wire alternative designed for Nest Thermostat

View Price
On Amazon

The Nest Power Connector comes in handy for providing a stable power source to your Nest thermostat if your heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system is unable to deliver consistent power.

Specifications

• A comprehensive alternative to connecting a common wire (C wire) or hiring a professional installer to run a new C wire, the Nest Power Connector is compatible with the Nest Thermostat, Nest Learning Thermostat (3rd gen), and Nest Thermostat E.

To install, simply plug it into the wall and connect the black and white wires to your system's power terminals, while attaching the red wire to the C terminal.

The connector then transmits a signal to the thermostat, alerting it when to turn the system on or off.

Fixes Power Issues

A Nest Power Connector or C wire can help fix power-related issues, such as a rapidly draining battery or Wi-Fi disconnections, by providing a stable power supply to your Nest thermostat.

If you're not comfortable doing it yourself, a professional installer can manage the process for you.

Option 3: Use a Common Maker

A Common Maker, such as the Fast-STAT, offers a convenient solution for connecting a C-Wire without pulling additional cables.

It features a wireless sender and receiver that simplify the process, making it a time-saving and cost-effective alternative to rewiring your thermostat.

Fast-STAT

A generic C-Wire alternative

View Price
On Amazon

The Fast-STAT Common Maker consists of two components: a sender, which is connected to the thermostat, and a receiver, which is installed at your furnace.

Specifications

• By adding a common "C" connection to your thermostat, it allows a 24-Volt power source to be included in the existing installation.
• Additionally, the Fast-STAT can accommodate a distance of up to 300 feet between the sender and receiver when using an 18 AWG cable, and it doesn't require any batteries.

Option 4: Install a C-Wire Adapter

Installing a C-Wire adapter is an effective DIY solution if your Nest thermostat setup lacks the necessary C-wire and you don’t want the hassle of installing the Nest Power Connector or Common Maker.

These adapters, designed specifically for the Nest thermostat, are user-friendly and easy to install.

By plugging the adapter into a nearby outlet and wiring it directly to your thermostat, you can eliminate the Delayed message.

To minimize visible wires, simply run the adapter wire along the wall or within it.

C-Wire Adapter

24 volt transformer for a nearby power outlet

View Price
On Amazon

This versatile adapter powers popular smart thermostats and doorbells while ensuring safe device charging.

Specifications

• With an 8-meter (315-inch) long cable, you can conveniently plug the adapter into an outlet without worrying about distance limitations.

Option 5: Reuse your G Wire as a C Wire

The G-wire is the green wire that enables independent control of your blower fan and is not to be confused with a ground wire. In this solution, you’ll be removing it from the G-terminal in the thermostat and installing it the same way for a C-wire. 

The same needs to be completed at the furnace. Using this is a cheap and easy way to get continuous power to your thermostat however you do lose independent control over your ventilation fan.

Other Causes & Solutions

Advanced Software Features Draining Battery

Advanced software features can potentially drain your Nest thermostat's battery faster than the C-Wire or equipment can recharge it.

To prevent this issue, verify that your thermostat's software is up-to-date and consider disabling certain features to save battery life.

In recent months, Nest thermostats have received software updates to enhance sensor accuracy and Wi-Fi connection reliability.

Additionally, set your smartphone to automatically update the Nest app and Google Home app, ensuring you always have the latest features and improvements.

Loose C-Wire Connection

A loose C-wire connection can cause Nest thermostat delays, as the necessary power supply to the battery may be inconsistent.

To resolve this issue, inspect your wiring to identify any loose connections and secure them firmly, ensuring uninterrupted power to your Nest thermostat and improved performance.

Faulty HVAC Power Source

A faulty HVAC power source can cause your Nest thermostat to experience delays, even if it's properly connected to a C-wire.

To troubleshoot this issue, check your HVAC equipment for any visible damage or loose connections, and ensure the power supply is functioning correctly.

If necessary, consult a professional technician to assess and repair the problem, as this will not only fix the Nest thermostat delays but also contribute to the overall efficiency of your HVAC system.

Battery Failing

A failing internal battery is a common cause of Nest thermostat delays. Integrated batteries should last 5 – 10 years however some may have defects resulting in a shorter life span.

If your battery is on its last legs and is under warranty, you may be able to get a free replacement.

Nest thermostat batteries are non-serviceable parts so it’s not possible to replace them.

Get Professional Help with a Nest Pro

If you're uncertain about the issue or aren’t confident in resolving it yourself, consider contacting a local Nest Pro for help.

These professionals possess the knowledge and skills to identify and rectify any problems with your thermostat and HVAC system.

They'll also handle more complex tasks, such as connecting a C wire or a Nest Power Connector if required.

A Nest Pro offers specialized installation services for Nest devices, such as thermostats, through Google's partners Handy and OnTech.

These services offer the convenience of online scheduling, availability during evenings and weekends, and a one-year workmanship warranty for your peace of mind.

Tips to protect your AC Compressor

Experiencing delays with your Nest Thermostat can be frustrating, but it's essential to understand how it protects your AC compressor and learn ways to improve its efficiency.

Nest Thermostat Delayed: Conclusion

In conclusion, the “Heating is delayed” or “Cooling is delayed” message on your Nest Thermostat indicates that your device is not getting enough power to operate properly. 

This can affect your comfort and the performance of your system, as well as cause other problems with your HVAC system. 

To prevent this issue, you should consider installing a C-wire or a C-wire accessory to provide a stable and consistent power source for your Nest thermostat. 

By doing so, you can enjoy the full benefits of your smart device and avoid any delays or malfunctions.

We hope this solved the Nest Thermostat Delayed error message.

Sources

• https://support.google.com/googlenest/answer/9246551?hl=en
• https://support.google.com/googlenest/answer/9297548?hl=en#zippy=%2Cnest-thermostats-and-temperature-sensors
• https://support.google.com/googlenest/answer/9235232?hl=en#zippy=%2Ccheck-your-energy-history%2Cinstall-the-nest-power-connector
• Smart Home Perfected

The post Why Does My Nest Say Delayed? [countdown for 2-5 mins] appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

An incoming call is indicated by a radiant green circle, while a spinning green emblem demonstrates that you're either on a call or starting a drop-in talk with another person, with the purple line and white light as other light pulsing signals.

The green notification is regularly mistaken for the yellow light ring, which signifies that you have a new notification or message indicated by the indicator light or the light red LED ring.

Check out our yellow light ring article, for how to manage these notifications and dismiss the yellow light among other status lights and flashing lights.

How can Alexa receive calls?

There are a number of ways your Echo speaker or display can receive calls. 

• “Alexa-to-Alexa Contact” allows people with Echo devices to call other people with Echo devices.
• If you’ve hooked up your mobile phone account (AT&T, Verizon, EE, Vodafone currently supported) to your Alexa profile, you can receive mobile phone calls on your Echo devices.
• If Skype is configured in your Alexa App, you can receive these calls via your Echo speaker also.

What is a Drop-In?

The Drop-In feature acts like a digital intercom and allows you to communicate with other Echo devices in your home.

For Echo and Echo Dot speakers, this acts like an automatically answered audio call while for the Echo Show, it acts like an instant video call.

To start a Drop-In you simply say:

• “Alexa, Drop In on [Echo device name]”

Or you can Drop-In from the Alexa app to your Echo speakers or displays if you are away from home.

You can also Drop-In on friends or family in other homes, if they have provided you with “Drop-In” permission. This is great if, for example, you are caring for an elderly relative and need to check in on them regularly.

Say to your Echo device:

• “Alexa, Drop In on [friend's name].”

This feature is configured on a contact-by-contact basis as you can see below:

What Does it Mean When Alexa Flashing Green Ring?

If you see a pulsing green light on your Echo speaker, it means you are receiving a call. Alexa usually informs you who is calling.

You can then say

• “Alexa, Answer”
• “Alexa, Ignore Call”

By saying “Answer”, you will be connected with the caller. Echo devices with a screen will also display the name of the caller.

You can also ignore it by saying nothing. Your Echo will stop pulsing right after the person stops calling. Both ways work fine and will turn off the pulsing green light on your Echo, reverting the LED light ring back to its default state among the various indicator lights

The other variation is the spinning green ring which shows when you are on an active call or someone has “dropped in” on you, indicated by conversation colors, light ring colors, light blue, and ensuring Alexa privacy.

You will see the green spinning light for as long as you are on that call. As soon as you or the other person hangs up, the green light will disappear, reverting back to the default Amazon Echo light colors.

To end the call or drop in, simply say:

• “Alexa, Hang up.” 

How to Fully Disable the Amazon Echo Alexa Green Ring?

If you don't want your Echo speaker to display the green light at all, and would rather disconnect Alexa from calls and Drop-Ins, follow the below steps.

The difference between an Alexa Call and a Drop-In

It’s possible to communicate with the Echo devices of family and friends through the Alexa Call or Drop-In feature.

The main difference between these methods is that you can reject an incoming call if it doesn’t suit, whereas you cannot reject a drop-in. A drop-in opens an instant conversation between the two Echo devices, like an intercom.

Drop-In is highly controlled and permissions must be granted on a contact-by-contact basis. This makes sense as it has the potential to be very intrusive. For that reason, it probably makes the most sense to only allow Drop-in for close family. I know that personally, I  wouldn’t want my friends listening in on my conversations or watching me through my Echo Show camera! 

FAQ:

Why is the Amazon Echo's light green?

The green light on your Amazon Echo indicates that you have an incoming call or drop-in. When you see a spinning or pulsing green light, it means someone is trying to reach you via Alexa's calling or drop-in feature.

What happens to the green light when you are on an active call?

When you are on an active call, the green light will remain solid on your Echo device. This signifies that the call is currently in progress.

Where does the green light appear on an Echo speaker with a screen?

On Echo devices with a screen, such as the Echo Show, the green light typically appears as a green bar or indicator at the bottom or top edge of the display, depending on the model. This light serves the same purpose of indicating incoming calls or active calls.

What does the Echo's green ring look like?

The Echo's green ring looks like a spinning or pulsing green light around the top edge of the device. When a call is active, the green light becomes solid. This visual indicator helps users identify the call status at a glance.

Conclusion

To get rid of the green light, if you’ve said “Alexa, Ignore Call” and “Alexa, Hang Up” and the light is still spinning, then it’s possible that it's more of a Yellow Ring than a Green one! In that case, say “Alexa, Clear Notifications.” Check out our other article which explains more about this.

Also, it may be possible that Alexa misheard something you said, and accidentally started a call or drop-in on someone else. While “Alexa, Hang Up” should solve this, you can review your voice history on the Alexa app to see if this is what happened.

Let us know what worked for you in the comments below!

Sources

https://www.amazon.com/

https://techcrunch.com/

The post Amazon Alexa Echo Green Light: What Does it Mean? How to Stop it? appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

The blue light, green light, yellow ring, and flashing yellow light ring on your Amazon Alexa Echo hub serve as an alert system, providing notifications, reminders, and messages via the voice assistant and led indicator.

I shop a lot on Amazon, so in my experience, it is usually a message from Amazon shopping letting me know that a delivery is due to arrive today via the LED indicator light on my Echo Dot or through an Alexa guard.

However, it can also be an audio message received from your device by one of your contacts, for example, an alert that an Amazon “subscribe & save” item is about to be dispatched, a missed reminder that you had previously set, or a calendar event, indicated by order notifications or shipping notifications on your amazon echo hub.

Note: In certain lighting conditions, it can be difficult to see the exact color of the orange or flashing or slow yellow burst light. If the below does not solve your issue with orange here slow yellow burst or purple here, then I recommend, following the instructions here for the orange, purple ring, and green or yellow ring, referencing the indicator colors on your echo spot, which can signal issues with SMS texts.

You can also watch the latest version of my video below where I go over the various topics discussed in this online article, including voice messages, text messages, and contact access.

How to disable your Echo showing Yellow Ring?

The easiest way to enable, disable, and dismiss the Amazon Echo yellow light ring reminder feature is to simply speak to your voice assistant on your amazon echo dot about it!

Simply Say:

• “Alexa, what notifications do I have?”

You will then hear Alexa read out your notifications. Afterwards, the Yellow light will become purple, orange light,, purple, green light blue, and disappear.

If the message you answer that you don’t want to hear the notifications, then you can say:

• “Alexa, clear notifications”

After issuing the command, the yellow light will transition to another color within a few seconds, indicating that your request has been processed.

You can log into your Alexa app to see notifications, unread messages, and reminders also. Notifications should appear on the app home screen. Messages appear in the “Communicate” tab at the bottom while reminders are visible in More > Reminders.

Unread messages on your Alexa device can also trigger the yellow light, and checking these messages can help clear it.

Disable Amazon Echo Device Yellow Ring Notification Settings

If you would rather not receive select notifications from the Alexa yellow ring device, you can disable Amazon notifications completely from select settings on the yellow ring showing the device.

Customizing your device and notification settings is crucial for managing device alerts effectively, ensuring you receive important notifications while avoiding unwanted disturbances from missed calls, texts, and Amazon shopping updates.

Stop Alexa from reading out product names you have ordered

Notifications may be an issue for many who just bought a surprise present for a family member and want to keep it a secret. You don't want your Alexa smart speaker reading out what you bought in front of the person you bought it for, ruining a potential surprise, especially if you have alexa guard enabled on your echo show!

There is a section under Amazon Shopping Notifications where you can instruct Alexa to include or exclude product names in notifications. By default Alexa will not read out product names if it is marked as a gift or during major holidays.

However, you may still want to suppress it, just in case.

Benefits of the Alexa Yellow Notification

There were an estimated 260 million packages stolen last year, based on a report from SafeWise. If you live in a bad neighborhood, and the delivery man leaves your parcel at your doorstep, the yellow light can help you pick up your package before the porch pirates get it.

FAQ:

What should you do to make the yellow light disappear after receiving a notification?

To make the yellow light on your Alexa device disappear after receiving a notification, say, “Alexa, what are my notifications?” or “Alexa, read my messages.” This will prompt Alexa to read the pending notifications, causing the yellow light to turn off.

What does the Echo's yellow ring look like?

The Echo's yellow ring appears as a pulsating or blinking yellow light around the top edge of the device. It signifies that there are unread notifications or messages waiting for you.

What can you do if you find the Echo device's yellow light irritating?

If you find the yellow light on your Echo device irritating, you can disable notifications by saying, “Alexa, turn off notifications.” Alternatively, you can manage notification settings in the Alexa app by navigating to Settings > Device Settings > [Your Device] > Notifications.

Where does the yellow light appear on Echo Show devices?

On Echo Show devices, the yellow light typically appears as a yellow bar or indicator at the bottom or top edge of the screen, depending on the model. It serves the same purpose of indicating unread notifications.

Where does the yellow light appear on traditional Echo speakers like an Echo Dot or standard Echo?

On traditional Echo speakers like the Echo Dot or standard Echo, the yellow light appears as a pulsating ring around the top edge of the device. This indicates that there are unread notifications or messages.

What types of notifications will not trigger a yellow flash on your Alexa device?

System notifications, such as software updates or low battery alerts for connected devices, typically do not trigger a yellow flash on your Alexa device. The yellow light is primarily used for user-specific notifications like messages, reminders, or delivery updates.

What might you need to do if the yellow ring still appears after checking notifications?

If the yellow ring still appears after checking notifications, you may need to restart your Alexa device. Unplug the device from the power source, wait for about 30 seconds, and then plug it back in. If the issue persists, check the Alexa app for any pending updates or additional notifications that might need to be addressed.

Conclusion

The next time you get the blinking Alexa yellow ring, don’t panic. It simply means you have a new unread notification on your Amazon Account. You can make your Alexa smart speaker read it out loud, or you can also check it by logging into your Amazon app to review the shipping notification or contact list on your echo show, using a voice command.

Sources

Amazon.com

The post Why Is My Amazon Echo Alexa Yellow? appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

In this article, I’ll walk through 10 troubleshooting steps to follow, if your Kwikset smart lock doesn't work or continues to beep after the batteries have been changed.

1. Are the batteries orientated correctly?

When changing batteries in your Kwikset smart lock, make sure to align the positive (+) and negative (-) markings on the batteries with the corresponding symbols in the battery compartment. 

Inserting batteries incorrectly can cause your lock to malfunction, resulting in persistent beeping.

2. Is the battery pack inserted correctly?

Your Kwikset smart lock's battery pack features door arrows that should point inwards.

To troubleshoot, remove the battery pack and reconnect it, ensuring the arrows are aligned and that the battery pack is in full contact with the lock's interior. 

Incorrect positioning can lead to insufficient power and unwanted beeping.

3. Try different batteries

Occasionally, you might come across a set of dud batteries, particularly if they're expired. To rule out this possibility, try using a different set of batteries and see if the issue persists. It's essential to use high-quality new, non-rechargeable alkaline batteries, as these offer the best performance and compatibility with most Kwikset smart locks.

Most Kwikset smart locks, including popular models like the SmartCode 888, 910, and 914, require four AA-sized non-rechargeable alkaline batteries. There are some exceptions, like the SmartCode 955, which uses a single 9-volt non-rechargeable alkaline battery instead. 

4. Test the batteries with a tester and check the battery level in the Kwikset App

An issue that may go unnoticed is a low battery even when they're freshly changed. To verify this, use a battery tester to check the actual battery levels. 

Additionally, for Wi-Fi models, check the Kwikset app on your smartphone or tablet to cross-check the reported battery level.

5. Z-Wave & Zigbee Model Specific Instructions

For these model types, it’s advised to allow at least 30 seconds to pass between removing the old batteries and inserting the new ones. This simple pause in the process allows your lock to properly power cycle. If the issue isn't resolved and your lock still has trouble joining or rejoining the Z-Wave or ZigBee network, you'll need to remove the battery pack and follow these steps. 

Press and hold the program button for 5 seconds, then do the same with button A. 

This combination of presses should effectively resolve the beeping issue that persists after a battery change.

6. Powerbolt Specific Instructions

For those using Kwikset Powerbolt smart locks, a specific set of instructions can help address the beeping issue after a battery change. 

Start by loading the batteries into the compartment as you normally would. Before reinstalling the battery cover, locate the reset button on the lock. 

Press and hold this button for 5 seconds or until you hear 3 distinct beeps from the lock. 

This resets the lock and should stop any unwanted beeping. 

Once you have finished this step, go ahead and reinstall the battery cover. 

As a final note, always make sure the latch remains in the unlocked position during the entire process to prevent any complications.

7. Carry out the Door Handling Process while changing the batteries

Changing batteries generally doesn’t involve pressing any buttons (other than models like the Powerbolt as mentioned). However if that doesn’t work then I recommend working through the full door handling setup process, similar to what you did when initially installing it.

The door handling process varies a little depending on the model. Generally, it involves pressing the lock button or the program button continuously while inserting the battery pack. Then the deadbolt attempts to fully extend and detract to work out the orientation of the door.

Some models like the Obsidian have a “Manual Door Handing” process if the automatic process fails.

8. Reconnect the Interior Cover to the Exterior Body

Some Kwikset models have built-in sensors designed to detect whether the interior cover is correctly positioned. If not, this can trigger the tamper alarm to beep constantly. To fix this problem, make sure your lock's interior cover is properly aligned and connected to the exterior body. 

Double-check that all clips, screws, or other fastening mechanisms are securely in place. 

Ensuring the correct positioning of these components should prevent any unnecessary beeping.

9. Carry out a System / Factory Reset

Carrying out a system or factory reset on your Kwikset smart lock can help fix issues you might be experiencing, especially if the lock is still beeping after replacing the batteries. 

Depending on the specific Kwikset model, the reset process may vary. Keep in mind that resetting the system will restore the lock to its default settings and erase all related devices from its memory, so you'll need to re-enroll your smartphone and any fobs after the reset is complete.

For the Kevo Convert and Kevo models, press and hold the Reset button for 10 seconds until you hear a beep and the light ring flashes red. After completing the reset, you'll need to re-enroll your Owner phone and re-assign eKeys to those who previously had access. 

For models like SmartCode 913, 914, and 888, Powerbolt, Obsidian, Halo Touch, and Premis, follow the specific reset instructions outlined in their respective manuals or online guides. These instructions generally involve removing the battery pack, pressing and holding the Program button, and waiting for the beeps and light indicators. 

Once the reset is successful, be sure to perform any necessary additional steps, such as door-handling processes, adding user codes, or connecting to your smart home hub.

10. Contact Kwikset Support

If all else fails, I recommend reaching out to Kwikset support who are usually pretty helpful and trying to find solutions to the problem. They may also provide you with a replacement unit if you are still under warranty.

How I researched

For this article, I reviewed the user manuals for the most popular models including the Premis, Home Connect, Obsidian, Kevo, Aura, Halo, and various SmartCode series smart locks. I also reviewed a selection of relevant Youtube videos along with reading a variety of support threads on various forums.

Check out some of my other Kwikset support articles, below.

12 Tips to Reduce Battery Drain

How to Open a Kwikset Smart Lock when the Battery is Dead

Sources

https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_is_5061063_925.pdf

https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_ig_5067375_942.pdf

The post Fixed: Kwikset Smart Lock Beeping or Not Working After Battery Change appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

While most security camera brands have Alexa Skills, their levels of integration can be poor with missing features, delays in activating feeds, and then latency in the feed itself.

In this article, I talk through the types of features you can get, such as picture-in-picture on your TV when motion is detected, along with my top picks for indoor cameras, outdoor cameras, and video doorbells.

7.4

1. Blink Mini

Top Indoor CameraTwo-way audio for communicating with loved ones

View Price

6.8

2. Ring Indoor Cam

Runner UpSecure your home with voice announcements and live video

View Price

7.3

3. Ring Spotlight Cam Plus

Top Outdoor CameraColor Night Vision with motion-activated spotlights

View Price

7.1

4. Arlo Ultra 2

Runner Up4K Video Footage

View Price

7.8

5. Ring Video Doorbell 4

Top Video DoorbellBattery or wired-powered options

View Price

7.5

6. Arlo Doorbell Wire-Free

Runner UpGet a clear picture even in low-light conditions

View Price

Over the years, I’ve tested a multitude of security cameras & video doorbells from a variety of manufacturers like Ring, Blink, Reolink, and Eufy. I’ve experienced first-hand the cameras where the sync to Alexa-enabled devices “just works” as well as the problems other brands have in integrating. 

What security camera brands work best with Alexa?

Alexa is owned by Amazon so it’s no surprise that Ring and Blink, who are also owned by Amazon, have a seamless integration into Echo and Fire devices. The same is true of Google Nest cameras with their Chromecast compatibility.

Amazon has made efforts to open up the Alexa APIs over the last few years, to improve third-party integration into the Alexa eco-system. There are now more than 100,000 skills in the marketplace which is proof of this.

Their main competitor Google now has an official Alexa Google Nest Skill, which you can install to stream Nest cameras to Echo and Fire devices. Most security camera brands have Alexa skills for their smart camera and doorbell ranges.

However, as of the time of writing, the vast majority of these third-party skills are simply not as good as the Ring and Blink skills, either lacking features or with major delays and latency.

Eufy is a good example of this where in my testing of the wired “Video Doorbell 2k Dual”, the device doesn’t actually show as a “camera” on an Echo Show (It shows as a motion sensor). While you can stream with a specific voice command, you do not have two-way talk and there is around a 15-second delay in showing the feed.

What does “Works with Alexa” mean in the context of security cameras and video doorbells?

“Works with Alexa” is a certification program that ensures smart home devices work seamlessly with Amazon's Alexa voice assistant. A large portion of smart security cameras and video doorbells available have a “Works with Alexa” badge, however, that simply means they offer at least one voice-controlled feature.

Below is a list of all the functionality you can avail of, by choosing a camera with the tightest integration into Alexa.

• Motion Announcement: Alexa can announce that motion has been detected by one of your security cameras or video doorbells.
• Doorbell Press Notification (Chime): Alexa can play a chime when someone presses your video doorbell.
• Person Detection Announcement: Alexa can announce when a person is detected by one of your security cameras or video doorbells. These “camera events” are an improvement on Motion Detection and reduce false alerts.
• Package Detection Announcement: Alexa can announce when a package is detected by your video doorbell. These “camera events” are an improvement on Motion Detection and reduce false alerts.
• Two-Way Conversation: Alexa can facilitate a conversation with someone through your video doorbell or security camera
• Live View: Alexa allows you to view live video footage from your security cameras or video doorbells on your Alexa-enabled device.
• Picture-in-Picture: Alexa allows you to view the live video feed from your security cameras or video doorbells overlayed on what you are currently watching on a Fire TV or TV with a Fire Stick.
• Arm/Disarm System: Alexa allows you to arm or disarm your home security system using voice commands. This can deactivate motion detection alerts from your cameras or doorbell.

Alexa Routines

It’s possible to achieve a lot of the above features through custom Alexa routines. For example, with the Eufy doorbell, there is no option to natively trigger the live feed to show on my Fire TV, when motion was detected.

However I was able to create a custom routine, that would trigger the command “Alexa, show doorbell” when motion was detected by the camera. 

This workaround was pretty unreliable though, only working sometimes. This seems to be the experience for a lot of people online also.

If you’re interested in setting up Alexa routines like this, I highly recommend LifeHackster on Youtube.

Top Camera Brands that Work with Alexa

As of the time of writing, Ring is the only brand that natively offers full integration with all of the above features. However, you will need an active Ring Protect subscription.

Blink comes second, offering everything except Person and Package Detection. However, you really need the Blink Basic or Blink Plus plan as a lot of features are missing without them.

Arlo is the only “non-Amazon” brand that has relatively tight integration with Alexa features. Similar to Blink, it supports all features above except Person and Package Detection. Some features are missing without the monthly Arlo Secure subscription, however, you may be able to live without them, if you’re on a budget.

As for Google Nest, Eufy, Reolink, Wyze, Lorex, or any other camera brands; because of missing features or issues with delay and latency, at this point, I cannot recommend them for seamless integration with Alexa. That may change in the future as the Alexa API opens up a bit more and the manufacturers invest in that integration.

Best Indoor Camera that works with Alexa

7.4

Top Indoor Camera

1. Blink Mini

Two-way audio for communicating with loved ones

View Price
On Amazon

The Blink Mini is a plug-in smart security camera that lets you monitor your home day and night, receive alerts on your phone when motion is detected, and use two-way audio to communicate with people and pets from your smartphone. You can even use it as a chime for a Blink Video Doorbell, and it works with Alexa for voice commands.

Specifications

• 1080P HD indoor plug-in smart security camera
• Live view and two-way audio, allow you to chat with people and pets
• Personalized motion detection zones

The Blink Mini security camera is a good choice for anyone looking for a reliable and easy-to-use security camera that works with Alexa.

From my experience, its 1080P HD video quality is a little on the low side but just enough for an indoor camera.  Its motion detection features allow you to customize motion zones and receive notifications for specific areas.

With two-way audio, you can communicate with your loved ones or pets while you're away, making it a great way to stay connected with your home even when you're not there. The camera is very easy to set up.

Unlike the Ring Indoor Cam, you can store footage locally with the add-on Sync Module 2. Although some users have expressed concerns about the camera's night vision and motion detection, the Blink Mini is still a good choice for anyone looking for a budget-friendly security camera that works with Alexa and displays feeds on an Echo Show or Fire TV.

6.8

Runner Up

2. Ring Indoor Cam

Secure your home with voice announcements and live video

View Price
On Amazon

The Ring Indoor Cam connects to your phone or Echo device, letting you see and talk to people and pets in your home. With a subscription, you can record and review videos for up to 180 days and connect with Alexa for added peace of mind.

Specifications

• Connect multiple indoor cameras to cover your entire home.
• Check your home live anytime with the Ring app's Live View feature.
• Compatible with Alexa for added security, voice announcements, and live video feed.

The Ring Indoor Cam allows you to access live video and audio feeds, receive motion alerts, and interact with visitors using your Echo or Fire devices with ease.  This camera operates on 2.4GHz WiFi with an AC power supply, so no messing around with recharging batteries. 

Video quality is an important factor to consider when selecting your security device. Similar to the Blink Mini, this camera has a 2MP HD resolution, with a wide 140-degree field of view.

The Ring Protect plan, which comes separately, allows you to record all your videos, review what you've missed for up to 180 days, and share videos and photos. There is no local storage option compared to Blinks Sync Module 2, which is a downside.

Setting up the camera is pretty easy and only takes a few minutes. The main positive is the Alexa integration as there are plenty of other cameras with better video quality and night vision.

Best Outdoor Camera that works with Alexa

7.3

Top Outdoor Camera

3. Ring Spotlight Cam Plus

Color Night Vision with motion-activated spotlights

View Price
On Amazon

This security camera lets you see what's happening in and around your home, with wide-angle HD video, night vision, and the ability to check in live via your Alexa-enabled displays.

Specifications

• Wide-angle 1080p HD video
• 2 motion-activated LED spotlights and a built-in 110db security siren
• Two-Way Talk enables you to speak to visitors from anywhere.

If you're in the market for a security camera that works with Alexa, the Ring Spotlight Cam is my top outdoor pick.  With its 140° wide-angle 1080p HD video and color night vision, you'll get clear and reliable footage of what's happening on your property, day or night.

Plus, with customizable motion zones and smart notifications, you'll only receive alerts for the events that matter (Ring subscription plan required!)

The Ring Spotlight is a battery-powered camera. In other words, it’s easy to install but a pain to maintain, as you need to get the ladder out and charge it regularly! I highly recommend getting the optional solar panel to avoid this hassle as there are a lot of reports of the camera having a short battery life.

Or get the wired version, which unfortunately comes with its own headaches of wiring a power supply! The Two-Way Talk feature allows you to communicate with visitors (or intruders!) from anywhere.  Similar to the Indoor cam, there is no local storage so you pretty much need the Ring Protect Plan which provides features like video recording and sharing for up to 180 days.

7.1

Runner Up

4. Arlo Ultra 2

4K Video Footage

View Price
On Amazon

The Arlo Ultra 2 Spotlight Camera is a wireless security camera that offers 4K video, color night vision via the integrated spotlight, and 2-way audio.

Specifications

• Ultra-wide angle 180° field of view makes it perfect for outdoor surveillance
• Supports Continuous Recording
• Integrated Siren / Alarm similar to the Ring Spotlight

Objectively I think the Arlo Ultra 2 is a better camera than the Ring Spotlight. However, in the context of this article, the Ring Spotlight has tighter integration with Alexa so wins out for that reason.

The Arlo Ultra 2 Wireless Security Camera is an excellent choice for those looking for a high-quality camera with advanced features. With a resolution of 4K and a field of view of 180 degrees, this camera captures crystal-clear video.

It comes equipped with a spotlight and infrared night vision, allowing for clear and detailed footage at any time of the day. It has configurable motion zones, which allow users to customize which areas trigger motion alerts.

Additionally, the camera features advanced motion detection, which can detect people, vehicles, and objects. This helps to reduce false alarms and ensure that users are only notified of the relevant activity.

The camera has two-way audio and an integrated siren/alarm to ward off intruders. It can be powered by a 6-month battery or AC power, giving users flexibility in their setup. The camera also supports data transmission via 2.4GHz or 5GHz WiFi and has optional cloud storage.

While there is some criticism of the motion detection on the Arlo cameras, my main criticism is with their new end-of-life policy which made the headlines recently.

They set the EOL to 4 years since the last manufacturer of that model which means you may need to replace cameras sooner rather than later. Despite searching online, I could not find an EOL for Ring devices.

Best Video Doorbell that works with Alexa

7.8

Top Video Doorbell

5. Ring Video Doorbell 4

Battery or wired-powered options

View Price
On Amazon

The Ring Video Doorbell 4 provides high-definition (HD) footage along with customizable privacy zones, dual-band Wi-Fi, and advanced motion detection features. Plus, connect to Alexa to keep an eye on your home and talk to visitors by saying, "Alexa, talk to the front door."

Specifications

• Pre-roll color video previews
• Can be powered by a rechargeable battery pack or existing doorbell wires
• Full Alexa integration

The Ring Video Doorbell 4 is a wireless camera doorbell that comes with some nice features. With a 2MP camera, it offers a resolution of 1080p and HD quality of 1920x1080. The camera has a fixed focus lens and a field of view of 160° horizontally and 84° vertically.

It also has night vision functionality with infrared technology. One of the standout features of this camera is its motion-activated recording, which sends push notifications to your smartphone and Alexa-enabled devices. You can configure motion zones and sensitivity to ensure that you only receive alerts when someone enters specific areas.

The device also comes with two-way audio, allowing you to communicate with visitors from your smartphone, tablet, Echo Show, or Fire TV. Another advantage of the Ring Video Doorbell 4 is its ability to be powered by a battery, hardwired into an existing doorbell system, or plugged into an adapter.

The camera is weather-resistant, making it suitable for both indoor and outdoor use. It can also be integrated with Amazon Alexa and Echo Show for added convenience. Plus, it connects to both 2.4 or 5.0 GHz Wi-Fi frequencies, providing stable connectivity between the doorbell and your home network.

However, one downside of this camera is that some of its features are only available with a cloud subscription. For example, cloud storage is necessary for video playback and image capture. Without a subscription, you may also miss out on some of the intelligent motion detection features, such as person detection.

While the Ring Doorbell 4 has received mixed reviews from customers, its overall performance is still highly praised for its clear video and audio quality, allowing remote communication with visitors. However, some customers have critiqued its limited Wi-Fi capabilities, poor battery life, and high cost due to subscription fees. 

There have also been complaints about the device's delay in recording (despite the advertised pre-roll) and poor clarity in low-lighting conditions. Despite these drawbacks, the Ring Doorbell 4 is still the best video doorbell you can get with Alexa integration.

7.5

Runner Up

6. Arlo Doorbell Wire-Free

Get a clear picture even in low-light conditions

View Price
On Amazon

The Arlo Essential Wire-Free Video Doorbell is a battery-operated camera that can be set up anywhere and allows you to see your visitors, respond to them, and can be configured to trigger the siren automatically to deter intruders.

Specifications

• Easy to set up and recharge wire-free doorbell with no wiring required.
• 180-degree wide field view with detailed HD video quality and HDR
• Pre-roll with the fabulously named “Arlo Foresight”!

When it comes to video doorbells that work with Alexa, the Arlo essential series is definitely worth considering. There are wired and wireless options to choose from and most users agree it has a quick and simple set-up process.

With a 180-degree field of view and 1536 x 1536 HD resolution, it captures clear footage of anyone who comes to your door. The camera also features infrared night vision capabilities that can illuminate up to 20 feet, making it easy to see even in complete darkness.

This doorbell is powered by a rechargeable lithium-ion battery, so you don't have to worry about running wires to your door. It uses 2.4GHz WiFi to transmit data up to 300 feet, giving you plenty of range to ensure that you can monitor your front door from anywhere.

The standout feature of the Arlo Essential Wireless Video Doorbell is close compatibility with smart home systems like Alexa, Google Home, and SmartThings. 

You can receive push notifications or email alerts when motion is detected, and you can configure motion zones and sensitivity to help prevent false alarms. Additionally, the two-way audio function allows you to communicate with anyone at your door.

It is designed to work with the Arlo Secure plan for cloud storage or with a SmartHub / Base Station for microSD and USB flash drive storage. It ticks many of the key boxes that most look for when purchasing a device like this. 

Camera “Works with Alexa” FAQs

What are the best security cameras that work with Alexa? 

The best security cameras that you can voice control with Alexa and display on Echo or Fire devices are the Ring Indoor and Spotlight cameras, the Blink Mini and the Arlo Ultra 2. 

What are the best video doorbells that work with Alexa? 

For person and package detection, two-way conversation and picture-in-picture live view on your TV, the Ring Video Doorbell 4 is the best on the market today.

Can Alexa show me the live feed from my security camera? 

Yes, Alexa can show you the live feed from your security camera on an Echo Show or Fire TV by saying “Alexa, show me [name of the camera]”. To do this, you need to have the appropriate Alexa Skill enabled. 

How do I connect my security camera or video doorbell to Alexa?

To connect your security camera or doorbell to Alexa, first, install the camera according to the manufacturer's instructions, then download the Alexa app and enable the appropriate skill for your camera. Then, link your camera account to your Alexa account and discover devices using the Alexa app.

Citations

https://developer.amazon.com/en-US/alexa/devices/connected-devices/business-resources/works-with-alexa

https://www.iottechnews.com/news/2023/jan/03/arlo-criticised-for-new-end-of-life-policy/

The post Best Security Cameras & Doorbells that “Work with Alexa” appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

A Kwikset smart locks battery life is impacted by numerous factors and identifying the source of increased battery drain can be tricky. In this article, I explore various ways to troubleshoot this problem.

During my research, I reached out to Kwikset support while also reviewing product documentation for the following models: Premis, Home Connect, Obsidian, Kevo Convert, Aura, Halo, Halo Touch, Kevo, and the SmartCode Signature, Kwikset, and International Series (e.g., 260, 888, 911, 912, 913, 955).

You'll find links to the product documentation in the sources section at the end of the article.

1. Use new, non-rechargeable alkaline batteries designed for optimal performance.

When it comes to powering your Kwikset smart lock, using new, non-rechargeable alkaline batteries is crucial to ensure long battery life. 

These locks are designed to provide optimal performance for over a year when used with the recommended alkaline batteries when operated on average 10 times per day. 

Don't use lithium, NiMH rechargeable, or expired batteries, as they can cause inconsistent power output and ultimately harm your smart lock's components. 

Lithium and rechargeable batteries often deliver a higher initial voltage, which may drop over time, affecting lock performance. 

Expired batteries, on the other hand, may leak or provide insufficient power, causing erratic functionality. 

2. Check for defective hardware, like faulty motors or wireless radios.

Short battery life in your Kwikset Smart Lock might signal defective hardware. For instance, if your batteries die within a day, a faulty motor may be causing the problem, and you should replace the smart lock unit. 

On the other hand, if the batteries drain within a week, it's time to run a keypad error test (For models with a physical keypad). To do this, insert new batteries and flip switch #3 to ON to enable audio. Test each button on the keypad and listen for a beep. If any button fails to beep, you might be dealing with a keypad hardware issue that's draining your batteries.

For smart locks with a wireless radio (such as Wi-Fi, Zigbee, or Z-Wave models like the 914 and 888) that experience battery drain within a week, the issue may be with the wireless radio. 

This can be identified by checking the Wireless Card LEDs to see if they remain on. To troubleshoot this, remove the battery pack and hold down the program button for 10 seconds before replacing the batteries.

If the Wireless Card LEDs still won't turn off, contact Kwikset support for assistance.

This may require a reset of the Zigbee or Z-Wave module, or a replacement unit.

3. Ensure proper door alignment to prevent stress on the lock components.

A misaligned door can lead to multiple failed attempts by the deadbolt to lock or unlock, resulting in increased battery drain. 

To prevent this, make sure that the door is correctly aligned and the latch lines up perfectly with the strike.

Any resistance during the locking or unlocking process caused by poor alignment can have a negative impact on both the motor and battery life of your Kwikset smart lock.

4. Disable unnecessary features such as LED, auto-relocking, and audio functions.

Disabling unnecessary functions is a practical way to reduce battery drain in your Kwikset smart lock. Some features like the LED, auto-relocking, and audio functions consume more power than others, and they may not always be essential for your needs. 

LED lights, while energy-efficient, still utilize power when activated, usually during keypad use or locking. Auto-relocking requires the lock to engage and disengage frequently, causing the motor to work harder and draining the battery faster. Audio functions consume energy by emitting sounds for different types of notifications and button presses.

To maximize battery life, disable these functions by adjusting the switches on your Kwikset smart lock. For example, if you own a SmartCode 913 model, set switches #1, #2, and #3 to the OFF position. Switch #1 controls the LED, #2 manages the auto-relocking, and #3 determines the audio functionality. 

By turning off these features, you focus the lock's energy usage on essential security-related tasks, thereby prolonging the battery life and reducing the chances of unexpected lock failures due to drained batteries.

5. Strengthen Wi-Fi, Z-Wave, or Zigbee signals for efficient performance.

Strong Wi-Fi, Z-Wave, or Zigbee signals are crucial for efficient smart lock performance. If your Kwikset Smart Lock has poor connectivity, the device may need to use extra energy to maintain its connection or reconnect, causing faster battery drain. 

For Wi-Fi models, ensure your lock has a robust connection with your router. If you find weak spots or dead zones in your home, consider upgrading to a mesh Wi-Fi network. Mesh networks utilize several access points distributed throughout your home to deliver comprehensive coverage, minimizing connection issues. Check out this list of battery-friendly routers from Kwikset's list of recommended routers here.

Similarly, for models that use Z-Wave or Zigbee protocols, consistent and stable connections are essential. These protocols rely on a mesh network of their own, where devices act as nodes to strengthen the signal. 

To improve battery life for Z-Wave or Zigbee smart locks, make sure they are within the proper range of other devices in the network. For instance, you can place smart plugs, switches, or other devices strategically between your smart lock and the hub. 

This bridge ensures a more seamless and power-saving performance, as your Kwikset Smart Lock won't have to struggle for a strong connection.

6. Confirm correct installation and recalibrate the lock if needed.

Earlier I talked about ensuring the latch and strike plates are aligned correctly to prevent any resistance during the operation of the lock. It’s also worth checking other aspects of the smart lock installation which may be causing the issue.

Ensure that the cable is stored neatly within the lock and is not snagged on any part of the frame. It's also important to verify that the hole drilled in the door frame is deep enough to accommodate the deadbolt. While the door may have been fine when you first installed the lock, warping could have occurred over time, causing stress on the lock's components. In such cases, addressing these installation issues will help minimize battery drain.

I recommend recalibrating the lock by running the door handling process again (both automatically and manually if needed). A lock that isn't calibrated correctly may exert unnecessary strain on the motor or repeatedly attempt to lock or unlock, resulting in faster battery consumption.

7. Apply lock-specific lubricant to ensure smooth operation.

To reduce battery drain in your Kwikset smart lock, consider applying a liquid lubricant to the deadbolt. 

By doing this, you'll minimize resistance and ensure smooth movement when locking and unlocking the door. 

However, be careful when selecting a lubricant, as the wrong choice may damage the components of the smart lock. Go for a lubricant specifically designed for locks to maintain optimal performance in doing so extend battery life.

8. Verify the battery level to rule out reporting errors.

Sometimes, smart locks like the HomeConnect 914 & 888 equipped with wireless radios (Wi-Fi, Zigbee, Z-Wave) can show incorrect battery levels on the smart home system's user interface. This leads to false alarms about low battery life.

To double-check whether the battery is genuinely low, follow these steps:

1. Enable switch #1 on your smart lock, allowing the status LED to blink every six seconds.
2. Carefully observe the LED flashes. An amber or green flash followed by a red one indicates a low battery level.
3. If there's no red flash, the battery isn't low, and the issue might lie within the smart home system itself.

In such cases, manually locking or unlocking your smart lock often resolves this error, ensuring accurate battery-level reporting. 

9. Check for excessive communication between the smart lock and the smart home hub

For smart locks with a wireless radio (Wi-Fi, Zigbee, Z-Wave, like the 914 and 888 models), frequent communication with the smart home system controller might be the culprit. 

To test this theory, remove the lock from your smart home system and insert a fresh set of batteries. Try operating the lock without the smart home integration for a week. If the batteries drain quickly, the issue is within the lock itself. If not, the smart home controller might be causing the battery drain. This may be down to an overly high ping frequency from the controller to the lock. 

In this case, decreasing the ping frequency to the lowest possible setting may extend battery life and optimize the lock's performance.

10. Follow the correct battery replacement procedure and power-cycling process.

If your lock continues to display low battery behavior both on the device and on your smart home hub, after installing new batteries, ensure that you allow at least 30 seconds between removing the old batteries and inserting the new ones. 

This power cycling process helps in the proper reset and operations of your lock. 

However, if the issue still persists and your lock struggles to join or rejoin the Z-Wave / ZigBee network, remove the battery pack, press and hold the program button for 5 seconds, and then do the same with button A. (These instructions are based on the 914 model)

Once done, replace the battery pack and test to see if it’s fixed the issue.

11. Ensure both the Kwikset app and the lock's firmware are up to date.

It’s worth checking that both the Kwikset app and your lock's firmware are up-to-date. 

Regular updates often include fixes and improvements that can help enhance the device's efficiency and battery life. 

To keep the Kwikset app current, head to your device's app store and download any available updates. 

Your lock's firmware version and available updates are generally listed in the Kwikset mobile app (for Wi-Fi devices).

If you have a Z-Wave or Zigbee model, you’ll need to check your smart hub and the Kwikset website, for details on available firmware updates.

By staying updated, you can optimize your smart lock's functionality while prolonging its battery life.

12. Reach out to Kwikset Support for assistance or potential replacements.

If you're facing battery drain issues with your Kwikset smart lock, don't hesitate to contact their customer service. Some users have received a functional replacement simply by reaching out. By doing so, you might just find yourself with a new lock that performs significantly better.

Sources

• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_ig_5052436_260[cnt].pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_tg_5049707_910.pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_is_5066071_910[zw500].pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_ig_5068561_916[514].pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_tg_5062818_916.pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_is_5066070_919.pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_is_5061063_925.pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_is_5066087_925[convert].pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_tg_66854001_953.pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_is_5066466_953.pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_ig_5066895_907.pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_ig_5066856_959[eng].pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/ks_tg_5066450[smartlocks].pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_ig_5067375_942.pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_is_5066087_925[convert].pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_is_5061063_925.pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_ig_5068555_913[514].pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_tg_5061920_913.pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_ig_5068557_914[514].pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_tg_5061883_914.pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_tg_5061899_888.pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_ig_5069923_888[zw500].pdf
• https://kwiksetprodstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/kw_is_5066070_919.pdf

The post Kwikset Smart Lock Short Battery Life: 12 Tips to Reduce Battery Drain appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

Smart Devices for your Garden!

Here’s a list of the best smart garden gadgets in the market right now. We cover all of them on our website, so have a look around for more detailed content as well!

Smart Indoor Gardens

Since more and more people are moving into apartments, indoor gardens have been gaining popularity. The truth is, many people don’t know just how many different plants they can grow indoors! The good news is that an indoor garden is not as much work as you might think it is. That is especially true if you have an indoor smart garden.

An indoor smart garden is like an advanced flower pot for your plants. You can find gardens of different shapes and sizes. Some can fit multiple plants and look more like large bookshelves or TV stands, while others are quite petite and only suitable for one small plant. 

One of the main features of smart indoor gardens is the LED light panel. It should be located on top of the plants and help the plants grow. This feature is especially important because plants often refuse to grow due to a lack of sunlight. You will find that these light panels can often be extended as the plant grows.

Smart Lawn Mowers

Mowing the lawn has become one of the most annoying and boring activities we have to do around the house. However, if you want to keep your lawn looking nice and green, you will have to put the time in.

With robot lawn mowers, you can automate this chore. You’ll understand the importance of a robot lawnmower a few weeks after you’ve used it. A robot lawn mower operates in a similar way to a robot vacuum cleaner. It uses sensors to determine where to go next and not fall in the pool. The rest is up to you.

Most robot lawnmowers these days are programmable. Some even come with smartphone apps where you can point out which parts of your yard you want to work on and which parts to avoid. With the lawn mower’s scheduling capabilities, you can tell your device when you need to grass cut in advance. Some of the newer models even come with features such as anti-theft, Wi-Fi connectivity, and rain protection.

Smart Irrigation Controllers

Irrigation controllers are nothing new, right? They’ve been around for a while. Without them, how would homeowners always keep their lawns nice and green? That’s a fair point, but have you heard of smart irrigation controllers? That’s right, you can now schedule the water flow in your garden.

One of the main features of smart irrigation controllers is programming. You can create a schedule for your sprinklers and decide when your plants will need some water ahead of time. This way, your plants won’t die even if you’re not home. You can customize every bit of the process. Decide how long you need the sprinklers to run and at what exact time they should start or end. 

Smart sprinklers are especially useful for owners of big yards. If you have a lot of plants to keep up with, each with its complex schedule, then you’ll appreciate the ability to control outdoor water use through your smartphone. 

In addition to that, a smart irrigation controller can save you money. Expect a smaller water bill after you start programming your sprinklers.

Smart Plant Monitors

You might be wondering why your plants refuse to grow when you water them regularly and provide enough natural light. If you want to know, use a smart plant monitor. 

A smart plant monitor is a device that you slide into your plant pot. It stays on the inside to monitor the conditions of the soil. The monitor uses the information it gathers to tell you what your plant needs. Some things you can learn from a smart monitor are the temperature of the soil, its moisture level, the amount of light it gets, and more.

With a smart plant monitor, taking care of your plants is like playing a video game. Check how they’re doing through an app on your phone.

Smart Weeding Robots

Pulling out weeds in your backyard can be a bit tedious. Unfortunately, if you fail to do that in time, your garden will look messy and disorganized. 

What you need is a smart weeding robot! Essentially, a weeding robot will take care of the weeds for you. Most robots identify weeds by their height. In other words, if a plant is tall enough to be detected by the robot’s sensor, it goes unharmed. Everything that ends up under the robot gets cut. You could easily compare it to the way a smart lawnmower or vacuum cleaner operates.

Most smart weeding robots allow you to set up routes and create schedules using your phone.

Smart Outdoor Lighting

If you have a large outdoor space, outdoor lighting can save your life. It can prevent you from tripping as you’re walking back into the house at night. One of the most important features to look at when choosing a smart lightbulb for your garden is brightness. Light is perceived differently outside and it pays off to find a bulb that’s brighter than the average one. Bonus points if you can change the brightness, which is a feature most smart bulbs possess.

Another thing to pay attention to is the Away mode. The Away mode switches lights on and off at random times when you’re away for longer periods. That can help scare off intruders. If you don’t want to let the lightbulb do its job, you can control it using an app on your smartphone. The app allows you to create schedules and decide when you want the lights to turn on or off before the time comes. You can also dim the lights or turn them up higher, as well as change the color or hue.

Smart Weather Stations

A smart weather station can tell you all about the weather with higher accuracy than your phone or search engine. A good weather station measures not only the temperature outside, but also the direction and speed of the wind, amount of rainfall, UV index, humidity, heat index, barometric pressure, and that’s not even all!

This type of device is only suitable for users who can make sense of all the information. All the data is presented in a comprehensive manner on the screen of your smart device. 

Open a mobile app to see the temperature outside (and, in some cases, inside), check the UV index for tanning, and see how humid it is.

Latest Smart Garden Articles

The Verdict

If you’ve decided to automate not only the inside of your home but also the outdoor area, these devices will come in very handy. However, before you decide what to buy, think about all the functionality of these devices and if you will get good use out of them!

The post Smart Gardens appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

Just a quick note: eufy provided me with a free sample of the product for the purposes of this review.

8.4

1.

eufy Video Doorbell Dual

Detect people and packages better with two cameras and dual detection technology.

View Price
On Amazon.com

With the eufy Video Doorbell, you get a more comprehensive view of your porch without any blind spots thanks to its two cameras. False motion alerts are also dramatically reduced with its human detection technology.

Top Features

• Unlike Ring Doorbells, there are no monthly subscription fees for Eufy devices
• This battery-powered doorbell can also be hardwired if needed.
• The homebase which stores the footage can also act as a chime.

Backdrop

When I first received the device from eufy I swapped out my traditional doorbell. Since then I've moved home so of course, brought the doorbell with me to my new address. So I've now had the experience of installing this twice over the last 18 months!

Installation & Viewing Angles

The setup and installation process in both locations was pretty straightforward. At its core, the video doorbell dual is a battery-powered device.

From a charging perspective, you have two options.

Depending on the level of activity, the battery power once fully charged “should” last you between 3-6 months. From my perspective, I hard-wired it on both occasions so I can't speak to the battery life.

With my first install, the device was in an ideal position. Flat on the surface with no obstructions which as you can see below provided a perfect view of the doorstep and approach.

Whereas for the second install, I was restricted by the doorbell's location and the wires' length.

So as you can see in the photos, I had to install it at an angle with an obstruction on the right.

I needed to use the “wedge” that came with the device to avoid half of the shot being taken up by the wall.

Accessories

You get all of the standard accessories you'd expect with a device of this nature. As well as the video doorbell, you get …

Cameras and Night Vision

The cameras on the doorbell give you a higher viewing angle, with complete visibility of what’s happening on your porch.

The front-facing camera captures a 160° field of view in 2K with HDR, while the porch view 1080p camera helps identify packages.

In my situation, it's not ideal to have the wall so close to the right of the shot, as it can result in infrared burn-out at night.

I have a porch light that automatically comes on when motion is detected, so I don't need to rely on infrared night vision.

Also, the “minimum illumination” lux value for color night vision is quite low which is great. As you can see below, even the street lighting is enough to provide full-color night vision.

Homebase Hub, Local Storage, and No Monthly Subscription

I hate paying monthly fees for devices that can and should be standalone.

Ring and Eufy are two classic examples of this.

• With Ring, all your footage is stored in the cloud and the AI detection algorithms are run in the cloud. So you need to pay a monthly subscription for this.
• Whereas with Eufy, they provide you the HomeBase, so all footage is stored locally and the AI detection also runs locally. With this model, you just pay a one-off fee for the device and that's it.

The video doorbell communicates over Wi-Fi with the HomeBase which in turn is connected to your router using the supplied cat5 cable.

With the Homebase, you can store up to 16 GB of video footage locally. That’s around 15-25 hours of continuous footage in decent quality which is quite impressive. The Homebase also acts as a chime in case you're not hardwiring to an existing doorbell chime.

It's recommended to keep the HomeBase in close proximity to your doorbell for better network connectivity.

In my case, I have mesh Wi-Fi so I have a node close to my front door for the best coverage.

In terms of retrieving footage from the HomeBase, it is pretty fast-loading and responsive to navigate back through old footage on the eufy app.

Also, the footage automatically overwrites itself when the disk limit is reached, as you can see below.

Reliability and Motion Detection Tech

As I mentioned in the intro, I have been quite impressed with the doorbell's reliability over the last 18 months with very few cases where the doorbell has not picked up an event.

Having the doorbell hard-wired and therefore always charged means once you set it up and optimize the motion detection settings you can then just leave it to do its work.

Most video doorbell cameras use either Radar sensors or Passive Infrared Sensors (PIR) to detect motion.

Radar sensors emit a radio frequency and measure the reflection of moving objects to detect motion. They have a large coverage area but fall short when it comes to detecting something stationary. This is where PIR sensors come into play.

PIR sensors detect subtle changes in heat energy in the area under surveillance. This means it can detect people on the camera even if they are stationary. The downside is that they can detect heat only from within a short distance and therefore, fall short in terms of sensitivity.

There are a number of settings you can configure for detection sensitivity, range, length, and activity zones as you can see below.

The eufy video doorbell integrates both of these technologies and also gives you the option of Human Detection to even further reduce the number of false positives.

I've tested quite a few cameras for this website over the last few years, and I am honestly quite impressed with the lack of false positives. So this mix of technologies definitely works.

With the addition of human detection, it does add a slight delay to the notification however I do believe it's worth it.

One of the only disappointing things about the device is the Face Detection. The camera is quite good at detecting faces, however, the process of adding faces to the whitelist needs to be improved.

For example: You can't go to previous events to add already recognized faces to the whitelist – instead, you need to upload a photo of the face which seems a little pointless.

Two-Way Conversation and Pre-Recorded Messages

The eufy video doorbell dual provides 2-way audio so you can answer the door wherever you are. It allows you to pre-record voice messages to be played in specific situations such as when there are people loitering or if you have an auto-responder enabled.

I've used the two-way chat feature extensively. There's a slight delay when communicating back and forth but not enough to stop you from getting your message across. I've not yet used the pre-recorded message feature so can't speak to that.

Delivery Guard

This is another “Beta” feature that uses local AI.

The feature notifies you whenever a package is delivered, reminds you to pick it up, notifies you when someone approaches the package and can trigger the doorbell or play a pre-recorded voice message when potential porch pirates (or anyone) approach your package!

You can see in the screenshot below how the camera is able to identify the package once it's dropped. I've had some instances where the cameras have misidentified packages so it's still not 100% but it is a nice feature to have.

Smart Home Integrations

The eufy video doorbell dual works well with Google Voice Assistant and Amazon’s Alexa.

I briefly configured a doorbell ring to sound a chime on my Echo speaker, however quickly turned it off as there was no need to have my hardwired chime sound, the eufy HomeBase chime and my Echo speaker chime!!!

The only drawback here is that eufy doorbells don't support Apple Homekit so no Siri integrations.

Also, I've been able to stream my doorbell view to my Amazon Echo Show and Fire TV however the integration is nowhere near as good as what Ring has to offer. (Ring is owned by Amazon so their devices play very well together)

8.4

1.

eufy Video Doorbell Dual

Detect people and packages better with two cameras and dual detection technology.

View Price
On Amazon.com

With the eufy Video Doorbell, you get a more comprehensive view of your porch without any blind spots thanks to its two cameras. False motion alerts are also dramatically reduced with its human detection technology.

Top Features

• Unlike Ring Doorbells, there are no monthly subscription fees for Eufy devices
• This battery-powered doorbell can also be hardwired if needed.
• The homebase which stores the footage can also act as a chime.

Sources

https://us.eufylife.com/pages/video-doorbell-dual

The post eufy Video Doorbell Dual Review (18-Month Update) appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

This has been recognized by the industry, which is why Wi-Fi is an integral part of the Matter 1.0 standard (alongside Thread for low-power, low-data-rate devices, and Ethernet).

Many of the devices I discuss on this website communicate over Wi-Fi and the need to have a strong Wi-Fi network is critical for a smart home to function smoothly.

In this guide to Wi-Fi, I discuss how Wi-Fi works, the various standards including the latest Wi-Fi 6E version, how you can improve coverage with Mesh Wi-Fi, how Wi-Fi compares to other smart home protocols, and best practices to keep your Wi-Fi network secure.

What is Wi-Fi?

Wi-Fi is a wireless networking technology that allows electronic devices to connect to the internet and exchange data without the need for physical cables. 

It uses radio waves to transmit information between devices, providing high-speed internet and network connections. 

Wi-Fi is ubiquitous in homes and enables devices such as smartphones, tablets, computers, and smart home appliances to communicate amongst themselves on a local network while also accessing the internet wirelessly.

Typical Smart Home Devices that Communicate over Wi-Fi

While there are a number of dedicated smart home protocols such as Z-Wave, Zigbee, and Thread; Wi-Fi is far and away the most popular protocol for device manufacturers.

Some common Wi-Fi-enabled smart home devices include smart speakers and displays (e.g., Amazon Echo, Google Nest Hub), smart thermostats (e.g., Nest, Ecobee), smart plugs, smart locks, security cameras, video doorbells, smart TVs, streaming devices (e.g., Roku, Chromecast), and smart appliances like refrigerators, ovens, and washing machines. 

Wi-Fi allows these devices to easily connect to your home network, enabling remote control, automation, and integration with other smart home devices and platforms. All of this without needing an additional smart home hub.

The use cases for Z-Wave, Zigbee, and Thread are a bit different from Wi-Fi. With these technologies, you are usually dealing with lower-power, lower-data-rate devices. I get into that in detail later in this article.

Smart Home Wi-Fi Guide: How does Wi-Fi work?

Wi-Fi works by converting data into radio signals, which are then sent between devices and a router. 

The router connects to the internet, allowing data to be sent and received. Wi-Fi operates on specific frequency bands and follows a set of protocols to ensure devices can communicate with each other. 

Different versions of these protocols offer varying levels of speed and range.

Wi-Fi Frequencies

Wi-Fi networks primarily operate on two frequency bands: 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz; while a third band 6GHz has recently been introduced. Each of these bands has distinct characteristics that impact their performance and suitability for different environments and applications. 

2.4GHz Wi-Fi

The 2.4 GHz band has a longer range, allowing signals to travel farther and penetrate walls and other obstructions more effectively. However, this band is often more congested due to the presence of numerous Wi-Fi networks and other electronic devices that use the same frequency range, such as microwave ovens and Bluetooth devices. 

As a result, the 2.4 GHz band may experience greater interference, which can lead to slower data transfer rates and reduced network performance.

In the smart home world, you’ll find that practically all Wi-Fi devices can operate at the 2.4GHz band.

5GHz Wi-Fi

In contrast, the 5 GHz frequency band offers higher data transfer rates, making it ideal for bandwidth-intensive applications, such as streaming high-definition video and online gaming. 

The 5 GHz band has more non-overlapping channels, which reduces the likelihood of interference from other networks and devices. 

However, the higher frequency also means that the radio waves have a shorter wavelength, resulting in a reduced range and weaker signal penetration through walls and other obstacles. 

Smart home devices that transmit video typically support 5GHz Wi-Fi, such as media streaming sticks like Chromecast and Roku; along with Wi-Fi security cameras and video doorbells.

Most Wi-Fi routers generally support dual-band operation, allowing users to connect to either the 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz band depending on their needs and preferences. 

6GHz Wi-Fi

6GHz Wi-Fi was introduced in 2020 as an extension of the Wi-Fi 6 standard. This frequency band offers higher performance, faster data rates, and lower latency, and can accommodate more high-bandwidth applications.

However, to take advantage of the benefits of 6GHz Wi-Fi, both the router and the connected devices need to be compatible with the frequency. As it’s a relatively new frequency, it’s taking time for device manufacturers to support it.

Wi-Fi Standards

The 802.11 standards are a set of protocols for wireless communication in Wi-Fi networks. Each successive standard introduces improvements in terms of speed, range, and efficiency with Wi-Fi 6 providing the best performance to date. 

Note: Wi-Fi 7 (802.11be) is due for release in 2024.

Wi-Fi 4 vs Wi-Fi 5 vs Wi-Fi 6

While Wi-Fi 4 offers dual-band support (2.4 GHz and 5 GHz) and speeds up to 600 Mbps, Wi-Fi 5 and Wi-Fi 6 provide significant improvements in performance. 

Wi-Fi 5 operates exclusively on the 5 GHz band, achieving speeds up to 3.46 Gbps and better handling of high-bandwidth applications. Wi-Fi routers that support Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac), also support all previous versions. So a Wi-Fi 5 router is usually dual-band, running a 2.4 GHz band at the Wi-Fi 4 level.

Wi-Fi 6, the latest standard, operates on both frequency bands and offers speeds up to 9.6 Gbps (in theory). 

Additionally, Wi-Fi 6 improves network capacity and efficiency, making it ideal for smart homes with numerous connected devices and the need for seamless, high-speed data transmission.

When kitting out a smart home, I always recommend future-proofing it with a Wi-Fi 6 router.

What is Mesh Wi-Fi? 

Mesh Wi-Fi (also known as a whole home Wi-Fi system) is a networking solution that uses multiple wireless nodes or access points, working together to create a single, seamless, and expansive Wi-Fi network. 

Instead of relying on a single router to cover an entire area, mesh Wi-Fi systems distribute the wireless signal among the nodes, allowing for better coverage, improved performance, and reduced dead zones. 

Mesh Wi-Fi systems are particularly useful in large homes where traditional routers struggle to provide consistent and reliable coverage. 

They are also easily scalable, as adding new nodes can extend the network's range without compromising performance or requiring complex configurations.

Mesh Wi-Fi vs Access Points vs Wi-Fi extenders

Mesh Wi-Fi systems, access points, and Wi-Fi extenders are all solutions to expand Wi-Fi coverage, but they differ in functionality and performance. 

Mesh Wi-Fi systems create a seamless network using multiple nodes that communicate with each other, ensuring consistent coverage and automatically routing data through the most efficient path. They can be wireless or wired.

Access points are wired devices connected to the primary router and create separate Wi-Fi networks, requiring manual switching between networks as you move around, but they offer stable performance. 

Wi-Fi extenders work by capturing the existing Wi-Fi signal from the primary router and rebroadcasting it, effectively extending the network's range. However, extenders can suffer from reduced bandwidth and performance, as they rely on a single radio to send and receive data, making them less efficient than mesh systems and access points.

Mesh Backhaul

A lot of Mesh Wi-Fi systems support a backhaul option to allow communication with other mesh nodes. This can be done via an ethernet cable (similar to an access point) or wirelessly. 

This dedicated communication channel between mesh nodes handles the transfer of data without interfering with the primary Wi-Fi signal used by devices. It ensures efficient and seamless data transmission across the entire mesh network. 

With the introduction of Wi-Fi 6E, which supports the 6 GHz frequency band, mesh Wi-Fi systems can leverage this additional band as a dedicated backhaul option. 6 GHz backhaul offers increased bandwidth and reduced congestion compared to traditional 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz backhauls.

Dual-Band vs Tr-Band vs Quad-Band Routers

Dual-band routers support 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz frequency bands, providing a balance between range and speed. These are the most common type of routers in homes today.

Tri-band routers add an extra 5 GHz backhaul band to reduce congestion and enhance performance. These are typically used in Mesh Wi-Fi setups.

Quad-band routers (such as the NETGEAR Orbi Quad-band Mesh System), are relatively new and incorporate the new 6 GHz band introduced with Wi-Fi 6E. With quad-band routers, you can backhaul over 5GHz or 6GHz, providing more available channels, lower latency, and increased data transfer rates.

How does Mesh Wi-Fi compare to a Zigbee, Z-Wave, or Thread Mesh Network?

Mesh Wi-Fi primarily focuses on providing seamless internet connectivity for a wide range of devices, including smartphones, laptops, and smart home appliances. 

It operates on the 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz & 6GHz bands, offering high data transfer rates and relatively long range. Mesh Wi-Fi is ideal for streaming, browsing, and other data-intensive activities.

Zigbee, Z-Wave, and Thread Mesh networks, on the other hand, are designed specifically for low-power, low-data-rate smart home, and Internet of Things (IoT) devices. 

They operate on different frequency bands: Zigbee and Thread use the 2.4 GHz band while Z-Wave uses the 900 MHz band. These networks provide better energy efficiency and longer battery life for connected devices.

Advantages of Wi-Fi over Zigbee, Z-Wave, or Thread

Wi-Fi supports much higher data transfer rates, making it ideal for streaming, browsing, and other data-intensive applications. 

It is a ubiquitous standard, ensuring compatibility with a wide range of devices, including smartphones, laptops, and smart home appliances, without requiring additional gateways or bridges. 

It operates on 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz & 6GHz bands, providing better flexibility in balancing range and performance. 

Finally, Wi-Fi networks tend to have more widespread availability than these other technologies.

Disadvantages of Wi-Fi over Zigbee, Z-Wave, or Thread

Wi-Fi consumes more power than Zigbee, Z-Wave, or Thread networks, making it less suitable for battery-powered devices, as it may significantly reduce battery life. 

Additionally, Wi-Fi networks can experience congestion and interference due to the high number of devices and networks operating on the same frequency bands, whereas Zigbee, Z-Wave, and Thread networks are designed to minimize interference and maintain reliable communication even in crowded environments. 

Lastly, Wi-Fi networks typically have more complex setup and management processes compared to Zigbee, Z-Wave, or Thread networks, which focus on simplicity and ease of use. 

For specific smart home and IoT applications, Zigbee, Z-Wave, or Thread networks may provide more energy-efficient, reliable, and easy-to-manage connectivity solutions than Wi-Fi.

What is Matter-over-WiFi

The Matter standard is a new, open-source, and royalty-free connectivity standard developed by the Connectivity Standards Alliance (CSA). It’s being developed in collaboration with major tech companies such as Apple, Google, and Amazon and it aims to simplify and unify smart home and IoT device connectivity with a single, secure, and reliable standard that works across different platforms. 

Wi-Fi and Thread are the two network protocols that have been selected for Matter 1.0.

Matter-over-Wi-Fi refers to the implementation of the Matter protocol over Wi-Fi networks, enabling seamless integration and communication between Wi-Fi-enabled smart devices from various manufacturers that support the Matter standard. 

By adopting Matter-over-Wi-Fi, in theory, smart home users can benefit from greater interoperability, simplified setup, and enhanced security across a wide range of connected devices.

Check out my guides both Matter and Thread for more on this.

How many smart home devices can you have on a Wi-Fi network?

Wi-Fi routers in a typical home can support between 30 to 50 devices simultaneously without massive performance degradation. However, newer high-end routers and mesh Wi-Fi systems can support up to 255 devices simultaneously. The Wi-Fi standard also plays a role: newer standards like Wi-Fi 6 (802.11ax) are designed to handle a larger number of devices with increased efficiency compared to older standards like Wi-Fi 4 (802.11n) or Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac).

Remember that as you add more devices to your Wi-Fi network, the overall network performance may be affected due to increased bandwidth consumption and potential congestion. To maintain optimal performance, consider upgrading your router, using a mesh Wi-Fi system, or segregating your devices across multiple networks or bands (2.4 GHz, 5 GHz and 6GHz) to balance the load.

Quality of Service feature for smart devices

If you are struggling with multiple devices competing for limited bandwidth on your network, then the Quality of Service (QoS) network management feature can help. It allows you to prioritize specific devices to ensure they receive the necessary bandwidth and resources they need.

I’ve personally set my Wi-Fi security cameras and video doorbell to have this QoS feature so it helps prioritize traffic from these devices for real-time communications. 

How do I keep my Wi-Fi network secure with so many smart home devices?

Here are some best practices to keep your expanding Wi-Fi network secure.

1. Update firmware regularly: Ensure that your router, access points, and connected devices receive timely firmware updates, as these often include security patches and improvements.
2. Strong passwords: Use unique, complex passwords for your Wi-Fi network and any connected devices that require authentication. Avoid using default passwords and change them periodically.
3. Enable WPA3: If your router supports it, enable WPA3 (Wi-Fi Protected Access 3) encryption, which offers enhanced security compared to its predecessors (WPA2 and WPA).
4. Separate networks: Create separate networks or VLANs (Virtual Local Area Networks) for your smart home devices, keeping them isolated from your main network that houses sensitive information and personal devices.
5. Guest network: Enable a guest network for visitors and less-trusted devices, preventing unauthorized access to your primary network and smart home devices.
6. Disable remote management: If your router has remote management features, disable them to prevent unauthorized access from the internet.
7. Disable WPS: Although Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) simplifies device connection, it can introduce vulnerabilities. Disable WPS and connect devices manually using a secure method.
8. Monitor devices: Regularly review the list of connected devices on your network and promptly remove any unauthorized or unrecognized devices.
9. Firewall and antivirus: Enable your router's built-in firewall, and ensure that all personal devices connected to the network have up-to-date antivirus software installed.
10. Invest in security products: Consider purchasing network security products, such as hardware firewalls or Unified Threat Management (UTM) systems, to add an extra layer of protection to your smart home network.

Recent Articles

Citations

https://www.wi-fi.org/

https://www.juniper.net/

https://www.actiontec.com

https://www.smarthomeperfected.com

The post Smart Home Wi-Fi Guide: Optimizing Your Wireless Network in 2023 appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

1. Programming Mode

On every Schlage lock model, the orange light is used to signal that the device is undergoing a programming process. More specifically, this light indicates a successful operation and notifies users that a programming command has been accepted by the lock.

For smart locks, such as the Encode, Sense, and Connect, the orange light deliberately shows up whenever you're trying to program it manually.

Making errors during programming, skipping steps, or pressing buttons too soon, can cause the dreaded orange light to start blinking continuously.

You can read more about programming a Schlage lock here.

How to Prevent a Schlage Lock from Glitching During Manual Programming Mode

On the non-smart Touch and Keypad models, press the Schlage button repeatedly until the keypad lights up. This will reset the programming sequence, allowing you to restart the process.

If you're manually programming the smart models, you can exit the programming mode by pressing the outside Schlage logo button once. Alternatively, you can wait 30 seconds for it to time out.

Regardless, make sure to follow the programming steps in the correct order and don’t rush through each step; wait for the beeps and confirmation lights. Also, make sure your programming and user codes are valid because that can cause programming errors, especially when you have to type in the same code twice to confirm an action.

2. Low Battery

For most smart models, the orange light can stay on when it's trying to signal a low battery.

With the exception of the Schlage Encode, all other models will use the orange light to indicate a low battery whenever you unlock. So if you're greeted with a flashing orange sequence, sometimes followed by a green light or slight delay, it clearly implies that you need to replace the batteries soon.

If you want detailed instructions on how to replace the batteries in your Schlage lock, make sure to check out this guide. If you're locked out, make sure to use the backup key to unlock the door, or contact a locksmith.

3. Factory Reset

Ultimately, if you can't get out of programming mode, and replacing the batteries doesn't seem to get rid of the problem, your only course of action is to perform a factory reset.

However, please remember that a factory reset will delete all custom user and programming codes. The lock will revert to the default codes, so make sure you have these available.

Performing a factory reset on a Schlage Encode is relatively straightforward since you only need to press the reset button and wait for the indicators. For the other models, the process requires you to remove the batteries and replace them while pressing the outside Schlage button.

Regardless, don't forget to check out my factory reset guide, where I lay out the factory reset procedures specific to each model.

If a factory reset won't solve the issue, it's best to contact customer service, your lock might be malfunctioning.

Conclusion

The post How to Fix the Orange Light in a Schlage Smart Lock? appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

While smart plugs are a quicker alternative to gaining smart control over devices, smart outlets offer a much more permanent solution.

This is important for Zigbee and Z-Wave smart homes, as in-wall outlets are the perfect repeaters, to extend the mesh network to all corners of a property.

I’ve recently installed some smart Wi-Fi outlets in my home theater to allow me to complete a “shutdown routine” for my sound equipment and consoles.

In this guide, I talk through some important things to consider before deciding on which outlet to go with.

Top Wi-Fi Picks

7.5

Kasa Smart Plug KP200

Wi-Fi PickIndividual control of each outlet

View Price

7.2

Leviton Smart Wi-Fi Outlet

Apple Homekit PickDual outlet receptacle with one smart controlled and the other “always on”

View Price

6.3

UltraPro Smart Outlet

Tamper-resistant smart Wi-Fi outlet

View Price

Top Z-Wave Picks

7.4

Enbrighten Smart Receptacle

Top Z-Wave PickIn-wall installation with hardwired connections and neutral wire required

View Price

6.6

Bryant Z-Wave Smart Outlet

Z-Wave Runner UpTamper-resistant design for safe use

View Price

Top Zigbee Picks

7.3

Enbrighten Zigbee Smart Outlet

Top Zigbee PickProven mesh network eliminates single points of failure

View Price

7.1

Sinopé Smart Outlet

Zigbee Runner UpThe only device on the list with energy monitoring

View Price

What are Smart In-Wall Outlets?

Smart outlets, also known as smart receptacles, are electrical outlets that can be controlled remotely through a smartphone, tablet, or voice commands via a smart home hub or voice assistants like Alexa, Google Assistant, or Siri. 

They typically have built-in Wi-Fi or other wireless communication protocols, such as Zigbee or Z-Wave, enabling them to connect to your home's smart network. They can be used to automate various devices in your home, like lamps, fans, or any plugged-in appliance, allowing you to set schedules, create personalized scenes, and control them remotely. 

Examples of smart in-wall outlets include Kasa Smart Plug KP200, Leviton Decora Smart Wi-Fi Outlet (D215R-2RW), and UltraPro In-Wall Smart Outlet.

Are there any Matter or Thread-based smart in-wall outlets?

Currently, there are no Matter or Thread-based smart in-wall outlets available in the market. So, you would need to use a Thread-enabled smart plug like the Eve Smart Plug to gain smart control over your existing outlets. 

As the popularity of Thread and the Matter standard is on the rise, more devices supporting these technologies will be made available in the future.

Considerations when choosing a smart in-wall outlet

Here are some of the things I considered when selecting a smart receptacle for my home.

Number of Outlets you can Smart Control

While most smart receptacles allow for two devices to be plugged in, not all of them allow smart control over both outlets.

My top pick, the Kasa Smart Plug KP200, supports both while the UltraPro only provides one smart outlet and one “always on” (AKA dumb!) outlet.

Communication Protocol & Hub Compatability

When choosing a smart in-wall outlet, the communication protocol is a key consideration. There are three main protocols: Wi-Fi, Zigbee, and Z-Wave. 

Wi-Fi outlets generally don't require a hub and connect directly to your home network, providing seamless integration with smartphone apps and voice assistants. Zigbee and Z-Wave outlets typically need a hub or gateway to connect and interact with your smart home ecosystem.

It’s also important to consider if you plan on using this with a voice assistant such as Alexa, Google Assistant, or Siri, as not all smart outlets work with all voice assistants.

For example, the Kasa Smart Plug KP200 works with Alexa, and Google Assistant but not Siri.

Energy Monitoring Capabilities

Opting for a smart in-wall outlet with energy monitoring features can provide valuable insights into your home's electricity usage. 

These outlets, such as the Sinopé Smart Outlet, can help homeowners save energy and money in the long term by providing real-time data and usage patterns.

Circuit Rating / Breaker Size

The amperage rating of an outlet determines the maximum electrical current it can safely handle. Most residential outlets are rated for 15 or 20 amps. It's crucial to choose a smart in-wall outlet that matches the amperage of the existing wiring and circuit breaker in your home to prevent overloading and potential electrical hazards.

All of the smart outlets on this list are designed for 15-amp circuits. This is typically suitable for general household use, such as lighting, small appliances, and electronics. 

A 20-amp outlet, on the other hand, can handle higher loads and is commonly found in kitchens, laundry rooms, or garages, where more powerful appliances are used. 

I was only able to find one 20-amp smart outlet available which is the Legrand Radiant Smart Outlet with Netatmo. However, the product doesn’t have great reviews so I cannot recommend it.

Also, it's worth noting that all smart outlets generally require a neutral wire.

Electrical Box Depths

Smart in-wall outlets may require deeper electrical boxes due to their larger size and additional components. 

Before purchasing a smart outlet, compare its depth requirements with your existing electrical boxes. 

If the boxes aren't deep enough, you may need to replace them or use box extenders.

Safety Features and Tamper Resistance

Safety is a top priority when selecting smart in-wall outlets, particularly if you have children in your home. 

Tamper-resistant outlets are designed with built-in safety mechanisms, such as spring-loaded shutters, which only open when equal pressure is applied simultaneously to both slots. 

This helps prevent children from inserting objects like paperclips or keys into a single slot, reducing the risk of electrical shock and accidents.

One example of a smart in-wall outlet with tamper-resistant features is the Leviton Decora Smart Wi-Fi 15A Outlet.

Safety Certification

When choosing a smart in-wall outlet, you should consider safety certifications from recognized organizations like UL, ETL, FCC, and CE (In Europe). 

These certifications ensure the product meets industry safety standards, providing peace of mind and confidence in the outlet's safety, quality, and performance, while reducing the risk of electrical hazards.

I personally wouldn’t have an outlet installed without the necessary certifications as it’s just not worth the risk.

Professional Installation by a Licenced Electrician

While some smart in-wall outlets can be installed by a knowledgeable DIY enthusiast, I highly recommended using a professional licensed electrician for installation. This ensures the outlet is installed correctly, safely, and in accordance with local electrical codes and regulations. 

Licensed electricians have the necessary training, experience, and expertise to handle any unexpected issues or complications that may arise during the installation process.

While this adds to the cost, it gives peace of mind knowing that your home's electrical system remains safe, and the smart outlet will function correctly.

Top Wi-Fi Picks

7.5

Wi-Fi Pick

Kasa Smart Plug KP200

Individual control of each outlet

View Price
On Amazon

This Kasa Smart WiFi in-wall outlet by TP-Link is tamper-resistant and allows users to individually control up to two connected devices using their smartphone or voice assistant

Specifications

• Set schedules and timers for each device
• Voice control via Alexa or Google Assistant
• Tamper-resistant design

The Kasa Smart Plug KP200 has an easy installation process with its snap-on design and supports schedules and timers for each device, along with an away mode to improve home security. 

The device does not require a hub and is certified by ETL for safety standards. You can group smart devices together for unified control with the Kasa Smart app. 

The device works with a secured 2.4GHz wireless network, does not require a separate hub, and is compatible with voice assistants such as Alexa and Google.

An issue with the KP200, along with most other smart outlets, is the existing electrical box may not be deep enough, which can complicate the installation process. Additionally, weak Wi-Fi connectivity has been reported in some instances, causing limitations in effectively controlling connected devices.

Also, there can be issues with the faceplate's ability to stay in place on textured walls due to its snap-on design. A more secure, screw-based system might be better to solve this problem.

7.2

Apple Homekit Pick

Leviton Smart Wi-Fi Outlet

Dual outlet receptacle with one smart controlled and the other “always on”

View Price
On Amazon

The Leviton Decora Smart Outlet (2nd Gen) can be controlled through the Leviton app, schedules, and voice control with Siri, Alexa, or Google Assistant.

Specifications

• Schedule lamps and connected devices to turn on/off at specific times or based on sunrise/sunset.
• Auto-shutoff feature as a countdown timer to automatically turn items off after a pre-set time duration.
• Home vs away mode to randomize your home’s lighting to improve home security

The Leviton Decora Smart Outlet (2nd Gen) has a number of nice features. The auto-shutoff feature acts as a countdown timer to automatically turn items off after a pre-set time duration

The vacation mode feature helps to give the illusion that your home is occupied when you’re away which can help deter intruders.

With its manual push-button on/off control, you can still use the outlet, when you’re internet or Wi-Fi is down. And with the scheduling feature, you can easily set up devices or appliances to turn on or off at specific times or even based on sunrise/sunset.

It requires a neutral wire and works with Apple HomeKit/Siri and Alexa.

There is some negative feedback on the product, mainly concerning difficulties with setting up the My Leviton App and the Homekit setup process. 

Some users find it frustrating to scan QR codes and locate devices during the setup. Moreover, a significant limitation includes only having one of the two sockets as smart, with the bottom one remaining always on. 

6.3

UltraPro Smart Outlet

Tamper-resistant smart Wi-Fi outlet

View Price
On Amazon

The UltraPro Wi-Fi In-Wall Smart Receptacle is a versatile smart outlet that is compatible with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant, enabling convenient voice commands without requiring a hub

Specifications

• 2.4GHz Wi-Fi compatible with the latest routers
• Control lights, fans, and plug-in devices
  Two grounded tamper-resistant power sources
• Screw terminals for easy connection of line, neutral, and ground wires

The UltraPro app, available on the Apple App Store and on Google Play, simplifies network connection and supports full customization based on times, location, and other factors. 

It features two tamper-resistant grounded power sources, one Wi-Fi-controlled outlet, and one always-on outlet. The white faceplate fits rocker-style wall plates for a modern appearance and screw terminals allow quick and confident connection of hot, neutral, and ground wires.

6.1

Budget Pick

Amazon Basics Smart In-Wall Outlet

Designed specifically for Alexa control

View Price
On Amazon

With the Amazon Basics Smart In-Wall Outlet, you can turn on/off multiple devices with the Alexa app

Specifications

• Can be controlled by voice using Alexa-enabled devices
• Allows for scheduling and routine automation
• Two separate outlets for controlling multiple devices

The Amazon Basics Smart In-Wall Outlet offers users an easy and innovative way to control their devices throughout their homes. With its 2.4GHz Wi-Fi connectivity and compatibility with Alexa-enabled devices, this in-wall outlet makes it possible to manage your devices through voice control and routine automation. 

Some points to note though. The large size of the outlet may not fit comfortably in all wall boxes, and it lacks side-wire connection options. Additionally, some people have reported connectivity problems, which may lead to the product being less responsive at times.

5.9

GE myTouchSmart WiFi Smart Light Outlet

Ideal for plug-in lamps. Single Smart Outlet with the other always on

View Price
On Amazon

The GE myTouchSmart Wi-Fi Smart Outlet enables wireless control of plug-in lamps and small appliances.

Specifications

• The top outlet remains on while the bottom outlet is Wi-Fi controlled
• No hub is required and works with Alexa and Google Home Assistant
• Set daily or weekly schedules

The GE myTouchSmart Wi-Fi Smart Outlet is a simple device that allows you to control your devices through voice commands or via your mobile device. 

The top outlet remains permanently on while the bottom outlet is Wi-Fi-controlled, and the outlet requires no hub to function. 

The product has a two-year limited warranty and is easy to install and use with its space-saving screw terminals. The UL-listed device is compatible with voice commands from Alexa and Google Home Assistant for hands-free control. 

Additional features include setting daily or weekly schedules, manual on/off control with a push-button, automatic adjustment based on local sunrise/sunset times, and a countdown timer feature.

Some users have reported difficulties when trying to connect the device to their Wi-Fi network, particularly those with dual-band routers. Despite being listed as compatible with Alexa and Google Home Assistant, several users have had issues with the receptacle not working well with Alexa.

5.5

Geeni Smart WiFi In-Wall Outlet

Alexa & Google Assistant smart control of both outlets

View Price
On Amazon

The Geeni Smart Wall Outlet offers the ability to control anything from anywhere using your smartphone.

Specifications

• Voice commands with Alexa and Google Assistant
• Automate daily schedules so your wall outlets turn on/off automatically when you need them to.
• Customize timers to conserve energy and only use the power you need.

With the Geeni Smart Wall Outlets, you can easily control devices remotely with your smartphone, or by using voice commands through Alexa or Google Assistant. You can also automate daily schedules to have wall outlets automatically turn on/off according to your needs. The product is easy to install and is compatible with various smart home apps while offering the ability to control both outlets independently.

A few users have experienced installation challenges due to it being too large for specific electrical boxes, or poor screw quality hampering secure wire attachments.

Top Z-Wave Picks

7.4

Top Z-Wave Pick

Enbrighten Smart Receptacle

In-wall installation with hardwired connections and neutral wire required

View Price
On Amazon

The Enbrighten Smart Receptacle allows you to control appliances or lamps via your Z-Wave hub

Specifications

• Compatible with Alexa and Google Assistant (needs a Z-Wave certified hub)
• One outlet is always on for traditional use, the other is Z-Wave controlled
• Tamper-resistant outlets prevent foreign objects from being inserted

The Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Outlet is compatible with popular voice assistants like Alexa and Google Assistant, easily integrating with your existing smart home ecosystem through a Z-Wave certified hub. 

The in-wall installation features two outlets one that provides traditional functionality and another that is Z-Wave controlled, allowing wireless scheduling and operation from mobile devices. 

With tamper-resistant outlets, this device is safe for use in homes with children and pets and is suitable for controlling various types of light sources and devices. 

Many users appreciate its easy installation, responsive performance, and compatibility with a range of smart home hubs.

Generally speaking, the device works well with multiple smart home hubs, such as Samsung SmartThings, Hubitat Elevation, and Wink.

Initial pairing with smart home hubs can be challenging and time-consuming for some users while others might be disappointed with the fact that only one of the two outlets is controllable, while the other remains a standard, non-controllable outlet.

6.6

Z-Wave Runner Up

Bryant Z-Wave Smart Outlet

Tamper-resistant design for safe use

View Price
On Amazon

The Bryant Z-Wave Smart Outlet allows the smart control of a single outlet via a compatible Z-Wave hub

Specifications

• Remote controlled with Android and iOS mobile devices
• Simple setup pairs with compatible Z-Wave Plus hubs
• One Z-Wave controlled outlet (marked, bottom), one always hot pass-through outlet (top)

The Bryant Electric IDEVZ08W is a Z-Wave enabled tamper resistant receptacle that allows for control of a single (bottom) outlet along with one always-on. 

It's compatible with Amazon Alexa and Google Home via a hub, making it a highly versatile addition to your smart home ecosystem. Additionally, the outlet can be remotely controlled through Android and iOS mobile devices for ease of use. 

People have found it to seamlessly integrate with existing smart home systems, such as Home Assistant. This has allowed them to effectively connect their Z-Wave controller to previously incompatible outlets and devices.

The setup process for this smart outlet is quite simple, as it easily pairs with compatible Z-Wave Plus hubs. It features one Z-Wave-controlled outlet on the bottom–ideal for connecting your smart devices–while the top outlet remains on, providing versatility for your power needs. 

The tamper-resistant design ensures that users can confidently incorporate the outlet into their homes without risking any unwanted tampering. 

With a range of 150 feet, this outlet provides reliable connectivity for various room sizes and layouts.

Top Zigbee Picks

7.3

Top Zigbee Pick

Enbrighten Zigbee Smart Outlet

Proven mesh network eliminates single points of failure

View Price
On Amazon

The Enbrighten Zigbee Smart Outlet provides one always-on outlet and one smart outlet.

Specifications

• Dual Grounded Outlets
• Remote and manual operation
• Zigbee Certified

The Enbrighten Zigbee Smart Outlet is a high-quality receptacle that offers numerous features and benefits. This outlet comes with one Zigbee-controlled outlet and another always-on outlet, enabling remote and manual operation. 

The receptacle comes with a space-saving screw terminal and requires a neutral wire for installation. The device is Zigbee Certified and acts as a mesh network repeater for device-to-device interoperability. 

The Enbrighten Zigbee Smart Outlet Receptacle is compatible with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant, through a compatible Zigbee hub. The product works well with various smart home systems, such as Hubitat, Amazon Echo 4, and the SmartThings Hub.

This product also comes with a 5-year limited warranty which is more that most on this list.

However, it's worth noting that some customers have reported challenges and drawbacks with this product. It does not work directly with the Philips Hue Zigbee hub. 

Users have also reported challenges with the installation due to the short ground screw while others were disappointed with the lack of energy monitoring features and having only one controllable outlet.

7.1

Zigbee Runner Up

Sinopé Smart Outlet

The only device on the list with energy monitoring

View Price
On Amazon

Reduce power consumption and bills by turning off electronic devices and tracking energy usage with the Neviweb app

Specifications

• Never forget small household appliances anymore, thanks to the ability to set a timer to turn off devices after a delay.
• Works with Amazon Alexa, Google Home, Neviweb, SmartThings, and Hubitat (hub required) for varied features.
• Save energy and reduce electricity bills by controlling energy consumption and avoiding phantom power.

The Sinopé smart in-wall outlet allows you to control a wide variety of small appliances and decorative lights using your phone or voice assistants like Amazon Alexa, Google Home, SmartThings, and Hubitat. 

You can set timers and schedules to turn off your devices, thereby reducing your energy consumption and avoiding phantom power. 

The Neviweb app and GT130 hub are required to use this product's exceptional features such as automations, scenes, geofencing, and energy reports. 

This device supports wall mount installation and connectivity protocol Zigbee. 

It is certified by CSA and UL and has a capacity of 15 Amps and a maximum power of 0.5 Horsepower. 

However, it is vital to note that some users encounter issues with the installation process, specifically related to the ground screw. The gap for the ground screw may not accommodate the proper wire size for all homes, necessitating adjustments to make it work correctly. 

Additionally, it is worth mentioning that the Sinope Wall outlet does not recall its previous state following a power outage, which could pose inconveniences for some users. 

My Experience

As I mentioned, I recently installed some smart outlets in my home theatre. I recorded a video for our Youtube channel, of the unboxing, installation, and setup process which you can check out below.

Other FAQs

What is the difference between a smart outlet and a smart plug

A smart outlet is a permanent fixture that replaces a standard electrical outlet and needs to be hardwired into your home's electrical system. 

On the other hand, a smart plug is a portable device that fits into an existing outlet and provides smart control for any plugged-in device. 

While both offer remote control and scheduling capabilities, smart in-wall outlets integrate seamlessly into your home's design, without any extra hardware sticking out of the wall. 

In contrast, smart plugs can be easily moved and installed without any wiring or electrical knowledge. 

Do smart in-wall outlets require a hub?

Smart in-wall outlets use different communication protocols, such as Wi-Fi, Zigbee, or Z-Wave. Wi-Fi outlets generally don't require a hub, while Zigbee and Z-Wave outlets generally do. 

If you already have a hub or gateway that supports Zigbee or Z-Wave, it may make sense to choose outlets that use these protocols as you’ll end up with a more reliable mesh network.

Conclusion

As you can see smart in-wall outlets offer a seamless way to integrate smart home automation into your home's design. They allow convenient control of plugged-in devices through your smartphone, voice assistant, or scheduled routines. 

My main recommended smart outlet is the Kasa Smart Plug KP200 while the Leviton DW15S-1BZ is also worth a look.

Citations

• https://www.ul.com/services/attachment-plug-and-receptacle-safety-evaluations
• https://www.leviton.com/en/products/residential/outletsreceptacles
• https://www.sinopetech.com/en/product/smart-in-wall-outlet-zigbee/
• https://byjasco.com/products/power-charging/receptacles

The post 10 Best Smart In-Wall Outlets / Receptacles appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

Why is My Ring Doorbell Flashing Blue?

As I mentioned, there can be several reasons why your Ring video doorbell's light is flashing Blue. Depending on the situation, it could either be nothing to worry about, or indicate a serious issue. 

So, it's important to take note of the model you have and the flashing light pattern before attempting to troubleshoot.

How to Identify My Ring Video Doorbell Model?

You can check the product documentation or packaging to figure this out. Additionally, you can also use the Ring app. Here’s how:

Ring Doorbell Light Indicators and What They Mean

Almost all Ring doorbells follow the same patterns to communicate a specific error. However, there are some differences based on how the device is powered and if there have been any recent network changes.

Here's what each different light pattern indicates:

Blue Indicators

Mixture of Blue and White Indicators

White Indicators

Red Indicators

After you identify the flashing pattern, the next step is to troubleshoot the issue.

How to fix the Flashing Blue Light on a Ring Doorbell

Scenario 1. Sections of Blue Light Flashing in a Circular Pattern

This fix is specific to 1st generations of Ring Doorbells.

The flashing blue circle on 1st gen doorbells usually means the device is charging. Once fully charged, the circle should stop flashing.

So if the flashing blue light doesn't go away it usually points to a charging issue.

1st gen doorbells can operate fully on battery power and be manually charged or they can be trickle charged via the doorbell circuit.

Unlike later models, the 1st gen Ring Doorbell's battery isn't easily replaceable. If the battery is completely flat and the device doesn't charge, you unfortunately might need to replace the entire unit.

Other than a flat battery, faulty wiring could also be a culprit, if the doorbell is hardwired. In this case you'll need isolate the circuit and make sure the wires are in full contact with the doorbell to complete the circuit. If you're unsure of this, then I suggest getting in touch with a professional electrician.

Scenario 2. Frantically Blinking Blue, Then White

Like any smart device, a Ring doorbell can sometimes go into reset mode. This could be triggered by a user, or during firmware updates.

If the circular LED light of your Ring Doorbell is blinking blue in short, rapid bursts for a few seconds, followed by a white spinning circle, it means that a factory reset is happening. 

There's no need to worry, as it shows that your Ring doorbell is finalizing the reset process. 

If after an extended period of time the device keeps blinking blue with a spinning white light, then it's possible the reset encountered an error. This could be down to a bad firmware update, a drop in power at the wrong time, or some other internal glitch.

Power Cycle

In this case, I recommend waiting a while to see if it can right itself and if not try to power cycle the device which can help resolve minor glitches.

To power cycle, you remove the battery from the device (for models with a removable battery) and for hardwired devices, then you can turn off the doorbell circuit from the main breaker board. After a couple of minutes, power it back up to see if that resolves the problem.

Scenario 3. Blue Light Sweeping Upwards

This pattern shows up when the Ring doorbell is trying to reconnect to a known Wi-Fi network.

Usually, you don't have to do anything. The Doorbell will connect to the Wi-Fi network, and the flashing pattern will die down.  

However, if it doesn't go away after a minute or so, there might be signal issues or a lack of internet access. To resolve this:

Check Wi-Fi Signal Strength Using the Ring App

Additionally, you can confirm the device has enough Wi-Fi signal by checking the RSSI (signal strength) from the “Device Health” tile. Here's how:

How to fix other Indicator Lights on a Ring Doorbell

Scenario 1. White Light Flashing

Typically, the white light will start flashing on a Ring doorbell when it's trying to update its firmware. 

That said, if the white light keeps flashing forever, you can try restarting/resetting the device.  

Scenario 2. Upper Half Flashing White

The upper half of the ring indicator will start flashing white when you've entered the wrong Wi-Fi password. It occurs during the initial setup, and you can reconnect by typing in the correct one.

 If you don't know how, there are several ways you can find your Wi-Fi password:   

After you find the correct password, you can try logging in via the Ring app. The flashing lights will change to a sweeping upwards pattern (in blue or white, depending on the model) when the password is correct.

Scenario 3. Left or Right Halves Flashing White

The left or right halves of the Ring indicator can also start to flash during the network setup process. However, it's not due to a wrong password and could be due to several others reasons.  These could be:   

This is also related to network issues, so ensure your Wi-Fi network has internet access and a strong signal.

Scenario 4. Bottom Half Flashing Red

When this happens, it implies that the Ring doorbell is running into a power issue. It might be low batteries or low voltage on the doorbell transformer terminals.   

So, try recharging the device or checking the connections of the transformer terminals. You can also check the terminal voltage and battery level through the “Device Health” tile in the Ring app.   

If there's an issue with the doorbell transformer or the internal battery, I recommend getting help from a professional.  

Scenario 5. LEDs Spinning White During Setup

To make this indicator light go away, you must complete the setup process. Here's how: 

Verdict

The indicator light on your Ring doorbell will use various flashing patterns and colors to signal its current status. 

Usually, these will be network issues, power failures, and other situations that aren’t necessarily cause for concern. 

So check the list above to understand what each pattern means and how to approach it if there’s any issue. 

Sources

• https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/217271526-Understanding-RSSI-Values-and-Wireless-Signal-Strength
• https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/360041637332-Updating-the-Firmware-on-your-Ring-Video-Doorbell-3
• https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/360051777531-Understanding-Your-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-Light-Patternshttps://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/360051777531-Understanding-Your-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-Light-Patterns
• https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/4408005139604-Video-Doorbell-Wired-Flashing-Light-Patterns
• https://support.ring.com/hc/article_attachments/360075547231

The post Solved: Ring Doorbell Flashing Blue appeared first on Smart Home Perfected.

At SmartHomePerfected we always advise readers not to undertake any work they are not competent in performing and if in any doubt, it is best to seek the assistance of a professional.

1. Try Waking Up the Thermostat

The first and most obvious thing to do is check if the thermostat display powers up. 

Press a few buttons, or if you have a touchscreen: tap or swipe anywhere on the screen to see if you get a response. 

If the screen doesn’t come on, you should continue the diagnostic steps below. Alternatively, if you have just installed the thermostat, there may be problems with your initial setup.

If you have a Honeywell model, check out my guide on Honeywell thermostats that have a blank screen.

2. Check the Batteries

If the power supply isn’t a problem and the screen on your thermostat still won’t come on, chances are that the batteries have died (although some thermostats will have a low battery indicator before the screen completely dies off). 

Alternatively, if your thermostat is hardwired, it may be a temporary problem – maybe your thermostat is recharging, restarting, or performing a firmware update via Wi-Fi. 

With thermostats that depend on batteries, replacing them is very easy and the process is nearly identical to all brands and manufacturers. For example, with Honeywell thermostats, you only need to remove the faceplate and replace the batteries at the back of the panel – click here for details. For Nest thermostats, the process is more complex as it involves the C-Wire – click here for details.

The process of removing the faceplate might vary, so check your product’s user/installation manual for instructions.

3. Ensure the Thermostat Panel is Completely Secured

The dead screen may be caused by the thermostat not being pressed in fully on the mounting plate – to the point where the contacts have become loose.

It's crucial that the panel is tightly secured to the mounting plate, as a loose connection can cause the screen to remain blank. Take a close look at your thermostat, and if necessary, detach the thermostat and reattach it by pressing the panel firmly into its designated position.

When the panel audibly clicks and is level with the mounting plate, you can be confident that it is properly installed.

4. Check the Wiring

Your next step is to check the thermostat wiring, so make sure to disconnect power to the entire HVAC system, remove the thermostat front panel, and check the wires and terminals.

To make sure the wiring is connected correctly, follow the steps below:

5. Check the Voltage at the Thermostat Wires

If you reconnect the wires, but the thermostat still doesn’t power up, the thermostat cable might be damaged somewhere in between, or the furnace control board might be malfunctioning.

To confirm these, it’s best to check the voltage at the thermostat contacts with a multimeter. Here's how:

If the voltage is lower than this range, it could indicate a disconnection or malfunction with the furnace control board.

However, when measuring the voltage, exercise caution around the wires and remember to take the necessary safety precautions, these contacts are live and could electrocute you or damage the internal circuitry.

6. Check If the Thermostat is Clean

A dirty thermostat can also disrupt the power supply. As such, it’s a good idea to clean the interior of your thermostat from time to time.

Cleaning your thermostat will not only sort out the power problem but also help improve its efficiency.

While you can find different thermostat models and designs in the market, the process of opening them up and cleaning them is pretty much the same.

The only difference is usually the faceplate opening mechanisms – some snap off, others slide and the rest need to be unscrewed.

To Clean a Thermostat:

While cleaning thermostats is essential, certain models with a sealed enclosure may not allow for it.

For example, if you have a smart thermostat, specifically with batteries, you must avoid cleaning its interior. All you have to do is clear out any dust or debris on the exterior surfaces and wire terminals in the back.

7. Check Power Supply

In most cases, a dead thermostat is because of your home's power supply, so check to see if the circuit breaker has tripped or if any fuses have blown.  

You can easily find out if the circuit breaker has tripped by checking your home's electrical panel board, wall outlets, and any safety switches assigned to your HVAC system.

Simply turn on or reset these switches to restore the power supply. 

However, if a fuse is blown, there’s no way around it, you will have to replace the blown fuse.

Also, when purchasing new fuses, make sure to stock up on a couple of extra fuses so you’re always prepared.

Possible Causes for a Tripped Power Supply

In many cases, a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse is caused by a power surge.  Alternatively, the HVAC system might be incompatible with your power voltage such as when your thermostat needs 240V input and is connected to a 120V power supply. 

Beyond that, the problem may lie within the HVAC system itself. 

To protect the user, HVAC systems are built with safety switches and disconnects that work like circuit breakers. On top of that, certain components like air conditioners might be connected to GFCI-protected outlets that may trip on their own. 

So, if any of these switches have tripped, simply reset them to the “on” or “closed” position. If the problem persists even after turning the switch on, then it's best to get help from a professional.

8. Check the Condensate Drain Pump

A float switch or drain pump is very common in systems with an A/C unit since these will help shut off the system to avoid water damage and possibly, drain out the excess water.

Water leakage is a major safety issue, so when the drain pipe is blocked, the float switches can shut down the HVAC system, without any prior warning.

Float Switch with a Drain Pipe

If your system has a float switch attached to a drain pipe, you can take out the float switch or end cap and try to unclog the drain pipe. 

Condensate Drain Pump

If you’ve got a condensate drain pump with a reservoir filled with water it might have switched off the HVAC system. Either the drain pump is not working or it’s not plugged into a wall outlet. 

These drain pumps are usually connected to a GFCI-protected outlet that will immediately open/disconnect the circuit as soon as it detects an earth fault or current leakage. Therefore, check for any signs of tripping in GFCI-protected switches and try resetting them if needed.

Also, if there’s water on the ground, make sure the power is off before cleaning it up.

Try cleaning the drain pump reservoir and making sure the outlet valves and vents are clear of any blockages. Then, check for pump operation and it works: try re-installing it to your HVAC system.

Final Step: Bypass the Thermostat

To figure out if the thermostat is indeed defective, you can perform a bypass to see if the blower, heating, or cooling equipment can turn on without the help of the thermostat. 

If any of these pieces of equipment can turn on during the bypass procedure, you can be certain that the fault lies within the thermostat. 

In that case, you can either replace it or get it repaired.

To bypass a thermostat:

If the equipment doesn't turn on, it might be an issue with that corresponding piece of equipment, so I recommend troubleshooting further or enlisting the help of a professional. 

Perhaps it’s Time to Replace the Thermostat?

If you find the thermostat to be at fault, it may be that your device is beyond repair and needs a firm replacement. 

So if you have been with the same thermostat for many years, it’s definitely time to go for an upgrade.

The Verdict

If your thermostat’s display is blank or there’s no power coming into your HVAC system, it is usually due to a tripped breaker or a safety switch.

However, there can also be more serious issues such as damaged wiring and a faulty thermostat, so I highly recommend going through the list of possible causes mentioned above and getting help from a professional if you’re not comfortable troubleshooting yourself. 

Sources

• https://support.google.com/googlenest/answer/9233319?hl=en#zippy=%2Cno-light-on-your-thermostat
• https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/why-is-my-thermostat-screen-not-powering-up/

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